AER4 Amana Range - Instructions
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1960's oven door gasket fell apart, actual gasket not available any more
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from WINCHESTER, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Chose rubber flexible gasket with metal tabs. cut to size. unscrewed metal bracket on inside oven edge on 3 sides, slipped metal tabs between oven and metal and screwed back in. Done! Not a perfect fit but pretty good - better than no gasket.
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Burner control knob/switch shaft had broken off.
4 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from San Luis Obispo, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.
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Oven would not heat
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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francis from mount holley, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor.
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That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.
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Bake element had deteriorated
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sandra from LAKESIDE, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.
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Heating element stopped heating
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Miguel R from MCKINNEY, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I unplugged the cord to the stove. Then I removed the two screws on the broken heating element. Once the screws were removed, I slid off the two wires attached to the element prones. Grab the new element and attached the two wires. Reinstalled screws. Plugged in the cord, and turned on oven. Heating element came on.
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element burnt out
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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richard from KAUKAUNA, WI
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
super easy after watching the how to video you had on it and iam the wife not the husband it was so easy thanks
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Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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richard from SAINT MARYS, KS
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Georgene from Rock City, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your websit
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e. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
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old bulb fused into old socket.
5 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Reno, NV
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it eas
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ily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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phillip from Farmington, NM
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose
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by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
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Bake Element shorted out, burned out hi-limit switch
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from Coppell, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker.
-Removed oven door and racks.
-Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall.
-Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads.
-Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or ... Read more weaken the wires at the connector.)
-Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position.
-Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire.
-Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat.
-Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure.
-Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch.
-Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short.
-Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select
-Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads.
-Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally.
-Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.
-Removed oven door and racks.
-Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall.
-Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads.
-Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or ... Read more weaken the wires at the connector.)
-Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position.
-Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire.
-Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat.
-Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure.
-Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch.
-Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short.
-Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select
-Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads.
-Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally.
-Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.
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No temperature control
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Max from Houston, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.
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Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
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i had to replace my oven element as is cracked in half
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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barbara from greenville, SC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
after finding my part and thank god for you guys i recieved it early it only took 4 days to get here i unscrewed my old oven part and popped the new one in easier than making cookies and now i can bake til my hearts content thanks for being there for me
barbara krebs
barbara krebs
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Oven Temperature was 50 degrees low
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eugene from Clinton, IA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees
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low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
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