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AER4 Amana Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the AER4
46 - 60 of 377

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Replacement of bad switch
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Roanoke, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a s ingle or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.
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electric coils would not stay flat as drip pans were incorrect fit
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janet from Philadelphia, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
replaced drip pans with correct type
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Bad Door Gasket.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Schuylkill Haven, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aubrey from EADS, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
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Heating element broke, needed replacement
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • thomas from LOUISVILLE, KY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repairman wanted $99 just to come look at it, then the cost to fix it. I got online, found the part, 2 screws and $40 later and all fixed. Wife baked me an apple pie that evening, better than ever!
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Bottom baking element stoped heating
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Napoleon from Glen Carbon, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws on the bottom heating element that hold the element in palace,one on the left side one on the right side, I then pulled the element out about 2 to 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then installed the new element. It took me about 20 mins. The cost of having some come out to fix this was about ten ti mes of what I paid for this part. Thanks for the quick service.
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Stove seal fell apart
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Teresa from Washougal, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.
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oven wouldn't heat. Lower element only .
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • harry from chapel hill, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then tried to pull the element out to disconnect the wires attached to the clips. The left side came right out. The right side would not. Had to pull the range out from the wall
(would only come out about a foot and a half due to the gas line connection). Removed the back (2 screws). Removed the clip from the element from the rear and redirected the wire into the oven. Replaced the back, pushed the oven back, attached the wire clip and screwed the element in place. Works fine. This is definitely a job not requiring an electrician.
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6" surface heating coil remained warm when "off"
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William C. from Sealy, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sl eeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.
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broiler element would not heat up.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • debbie from walden, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot..
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from r ear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.
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Store-bought drip bowls wouldn't fit.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sharon from Yacolt, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
My elements just plug in so all I had to do was pull them out and replace the drip bowls. They fit perfectly!
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ELEMENT BURNT OUT
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • stacy from West Liberty, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
turn off breaker take two screws loose from back of oven slowly pull out element unplug element an plug new element in push element in place an put screws back in turn on breaker done
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power light on, but burner not getting hot
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Weymouth, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.
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elements were broken
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CARLOS from DEVINE, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
took out the old ones and replaced them following the instructions provided by you. thanks
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All Instructions for the AER4
46 - 60 of 377