AEQB Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

This was the easiest repair ever done. Pulled out old seal/gasket and popped in new one. Took about 2 minutes. Be sure to mark where ends of new door seal (gasket) starts and ends when removing the old one.

The new motor from parts select was not correct. The new motor is a bolt on. The original motor was a press on. Had to return at a cost of 42.00 dollars. Had to buy a new dryer.

All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

I basically followed the video instructions on your website. Pretty simple but ran into an issue pre-threading the 3 self taping screws into the spindle bearing. The screws provided were blunt on the end and did not tap easily at all. I used the existing screws that were much more "sharp" and worked much better. Also, the new screws were ... Read more Philips drive and due to the amount of torque trying to self tap nearly stripped them out. The old sharper screws were square drive which had a better bite. So basically, I used the old screws to self tap and then used the new screws for the final installation.
It took a long time to clean all the lint out from the inside of the dryer. The motor was completely embedded with lint and animal hair. You may want to suggest that a good cleaning may be needed so bring a shop vac...and also something to carefully pick the lint balls out from around the motor armature and bearing area. Overall the video instructions were really a big help!

I took the repair video in with me and set my lap-top on top of the washer.
My dryer did not match the type on the video exactly (mine has the controls in the front instead of on top and in the back) - however - the parts replacement for the rear drum bearing itself was the same.
After getting the front apart and releasing the d ... Read more rum the rest was pretty easy. Didn't really need instructions for the heating element - that was an obvious change out.
The tips on the video changing the rear drum assembly were very helpful.
Just watch the vid and do it! It took me exactly two hours since I was also changing out the heating element and I did it on a Friday night while having a couple tasty beers.
One tip I would give is the old grease in the bearing is very messy and I got it all over my shirt and pants - and when changing that stuff out don't lean on the front of the frame - I did and bent it out of whack a bit.
The dryer runs like new now that it's done!

followed the repair video and replaced thermal fuse and thermostat(recommend replacing both due to the problem could of resulted in either part being the cause),Repair went relatively easy.I also recommend to clean and vacuum the dryer while you have it all apart due to a lot of lint buildup and don't forget to unplug before servicing!Sta ... Read more y Safe!!!

Replace rear bearing, found Exhust tube seal broken. Went ahead and replaced Drum belt & Idler arm assembly. Works like New !

I removed dryer exhaust hose.unsnapped top cover the clips are in front and exposed inside of dryer,remove 2 screws on inside of front cover and set aside. remove lower cover in back and push belt extender until belt is loose remove 3 screws on inside of tumbler. remove tumbler out the front of dryer be careful not to damage belt set asid ... Read more e remove ball plate by pulling up and out it will unsnap. Now remove 2 sets of wires that are connected to heater element plate remove 4 screws holding element plate in place. Since dryer was all exposed I cleaned everything out with a wet vac put back together following instructions in reverse. Good luck

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

I remove the old lint filter and just put the new one in.

Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap

i first looked up the diagram for this model and checked for the best way to take the front cover off the dryer. after removing the front cover i start looking for the wires that connect the door switch and remove the wires. the front cover also supports the weight of the drum, so carefully pull the cover until the drum comes loose. at th ... Read more is point you can visually see the parts of the parts that make up the workings of the dryer. i first noticed the drum was coming out with the front cover at this time i knew the rear drum assembly was broke. i then took the belt loose from tension pulley and slid it off the drum and removed both from the cabinet. after the drum was removed i also noticed the heating was broken in several places. i removed four screws from the heating element assembly and also removed two wire that were connected to the element. with all pieces removed i checked the thermal switches, there are three switches, one on the heating element, one on the vent side and one on the back panel of the cabinet. i then installed the rear drum assembly and the heating element assembly and connected the wires. i then slid the drum almost all the in place and put the new belt around the drum and dropped the rear drum into the bracket that supports the rear drum then run the belt around the tension pulley and around the motor pulley. i then placed the front panel back in place and connected the wires for the door switch and lifted the drum assembly up just enough to insert the front panel door support into the drum and placed the clips in place, checked all connections twice and connected power back to the unit and turned on and run it through all its settings.

I disassembled the dryer using instructions from the following website for White Westinghouse (pictures really helped)
After removing the drum, I first noticed that the grouding ball was sitting on the bottom of the dryer (along with much lint). I then saw that the bracket for bearing support cup and the bearing support cup were bot ... Read more h worn well past use. The bracket had been worn down about 1/4" to the SE with matching wear on the bearing support cup. There was a hole in the bottom of the bearing support cup (hence the grouding ball on the floor of dryer).
I installed the new idler pulley assembly and completely vacuumed out the dryer (I didn't know lint could get so stiff!). I installed the new parts from the kit once received (and the new belt bought previously) and the dryer works great. I'm so used to the obnoxious squealing that it seems odd to be so quiet.

The internet is a magnificent thing!

Watched a YouTube video. Very easy to replace, I’m 73 year old woman…this was a very easy job, anyone can do it!

First, I had to decide if it was reasonable to attempt the repair. Was it worth spending $160 to see if that would fix it, or would I just find out I'd have to start fresh and buy a new dryer, in which case the cost of the (failed) repair would add to the total cost. I was sure enough a new Control was the answer, the decision was to go ... Read more ahead.

I was concerned about getting the right part, but between your search feature that assured me my selection "will fit your unit", and the option to return the part if it wasn't right, I felt confident enough to order it. Also I was concerned about having good instructions to follow, but there was a YouTube video that showed all the details clearly. The included written instructions gave the general sequence to follow, but weren't for my specific model.

The actual repair was easy. Because the washer and dryer were stacked, it was harder to get to the back screws than in the YouTube video. I stood on a stepladder, and used an awl (with a mirror) to line up the holes when re-securing the top lid because I couldn't see them directly. I compared the new Control with the old by looking through the anti-static bag. If it looked wrong I wanted to be able to return it, and it had to be unopened to do so. Undoing the connectors, unscrewing the frame pieces holding the board, swapping out the boards, and putting it all back together went fine with the help of the video. I would recommend marking the old board to avoid installing it again by mistake. No, I didn't do that, but the old board was hardly dirty or worn and didn't look much different than the new one. Also, I didn't drop any of the screws, but if you do and they go down behind the unit or into it, one of those magnetic telescoping hardware retrievers might be useful.

That fixed it! 160 bucks instead of whatever a new dryer costs these days is a good tradeoff, and a whole lot less aggravation. It's been working fine ever since.