AEM6 Dryer - Instructions

I removed the screws that hold the element in place. I disconnected the wires. I took the new part, which was easy to identify and order, assembled per instructions, and attached it to the wires in the dryer, then screwed it in. I normally let my husband do these repairs, but he wasn't available. It was easy and the dryer works perfec ... Read more tly again!

Remove front pannel
remove wires to light and switch
remove drum panel
disconnect motor wiring
unscrew motor mount
replace idlerlever replace belt reassemble all parts

Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of t ... Read more he door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then h ... Read more e said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.

1. Disconnect power and hose. Use a putty knife to release top of dryer. Two restraints couple inches in from each side on front. Raise top and do not remove. Block it up in vertical so it doesn't fly down to back.
2. Disconnect five wires at front. Use magic marker to mark re-installation instructions on underside of top.
... Read more 2. Remove metal screws (2) that hold front to frame. Remove front.
3. Pull dryer forward and put cardboard box, or some such thing under back to support when laying dryer down.
4. Remove frame (4 screws) that supports filter assy and front of drum.
5. Remove belt. Mark assy. sequence on underside of top.
6. Remove drum.
7. Stand dryer back to upright position.
8. Disconnect spring from idler lever. Drop light may help here. Note position of lever for re-install of new.
9. Unscrew bolt that holds idler lever. Nut is on back of bracket. Must re-install this way as bolt has pivot surface for lever on front side.
10. Install new lever and reconnect spring.
11. Lay dryer back on box.
12. Put drum back in place. Insure it seats well all around the felt gasket. Any misalignment here and it will not rotate smoothly.
13. Put belt around drum using small pieces of tape to hold it into position around drum, and them depress the idler lever and install belt around motor pulley. Rotate drum to insure it rotates smoothly. Remove tape.
14. Re-install filter bracket and insure drum seats nicely in felt gasket. Again, rotate to insure smooth operation.
15. Pull dryer back to standing position and reinstall the front, and re-connect the wires.
16. Lower top and push down to reconnect locking devices.
17. Plug in dryer and turn on to see if all is well.
18. Re-install hose and start drying all those clothes.

No heat usually means a bad heating coil. Removed the heating coil and found a burnt element. Searched the internet looking for best price and fastest delivery. Ordered heating element and fuse kit from PartSelect on Tuesday, received parts on Thursday. Installation was quick and easy. Saved at least $100 using PartSelect!

I watched your videos - they're great! The strike was installed in less than a minute and voila - the dryer was as good as new!

Removed top of dryer and front panel. Keeping the front door closed I was able to start the unit and observe if the gas was igniting to heat the unit.
Found that no flame was present.
Examined the ignitor (found the locatino after utilizine this website parts diagram) and noticed it was cracked.
Ordered the new part and it ... Read more arrived two days later. Simple installation and ta daaa....ignitor works, hot dryer again.
*Only reason it took over half an hour was because I cleaned out all the internal vents while the unit was opened.
Basic mechanical abilities required here but remember to unplug the unit while working on it!

removed lower front panel, two screws on bottom edge. Limit thermostat located on lower portion of vertical panel at rear of dryer. I was able to detach the two wires and removed the two thermostate retention screws with a nut driver. Since I could only operate with one hand, I taped the new thermostat in place lining up the screw holes i ... Read more n order to replace the two hex screws. reattached the two wires and front panel.

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (i ... Read more t should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

1-Unplugged drier
2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws
3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws
4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to.
5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws
** ... Read more *** at this point the drum is exposed *****
6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum!
7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers.
8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller.
9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws
10- reinstall new roller support
11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light!
12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards!
13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part!
14-repeat for the other drum roller.
**** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard!
**** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it *****
15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires.
16-re-plug the drier and test

Open bottom panel and observed back left drum roller wheel wobbling and obviously making the loud rumbling banging sound. Search goggle for Amana model part -- found partsellect.com, and read the list of other DIYs:

Take off the lower and upper front panels (two screws
each);

Remove the front drum ... Read more glide holder (four screws. Careful
here because of the two wires to be removed for
door open off switch;

Pulling drum forward only enough so the bad roller wheel
would come off shaft after removing shaft snap ring
keeper;

Grease new roller hole and old shaft then place the
new wheel roller on shaft;

Replace all items back after cleaning lent off.

Note: Snap ring was a bit tricky (need snap ring pliers)--make sure it is clipped back all the way on the shaft after new wheel is installed. Also, I thought it was a good idea to put something underneath the dryer drum to support it while it was slightly pulled out -- a block of wood, etc. I found a spot remover plastic bottle that wedged up to support the dryer drum enough to take pressure off the belt during wheel replacement.

I purchased the "m" series ignition coil kit per" ask how repair man". Installation was straight forward. Simple repair when correct parts are used.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. The ... Read more n closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.