ADE7000AYW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.

There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

I removed the cover plate than pulled off the knob to gain access to the two screws holding the timer assy. in..once they were removed i removed the wires one by one and installed them on the new timer.then reinstalled it put the cover on and was done

I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

Turn the power off to the dryer. Pushed the two retaining clips that held the top of the dryer to the dryer sides. One on each side of the front. Table knife works really well to do this. Lift the top of the dryer up all the way. You will see the heating elements in the rear center of the dryer. There will be one screw holding the heating elements in place. Once you remove the wires from the heating element and remove the screw the heating element will lift out. Remove the heating elements and set down somewhere they will not get damaged. On the side the screw came out of there will be the heat fuse (as Maytag calls it). Remove the retainer by picking straight up on the retainer and the fuse will come out with the retainer. Remove the wires and replace the fuse and reinstall in reverse order.

Wife wanted a new dryer as it was useless without a knob and tired of using plyers to turn it. Went to internet, entered dryer knob, lead me to your site and item within two minutes. Ordered and received in 2 days. No tools necessary, just pushed it into place. Saved the cost of a new dryer.

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

This repair was so easy a sleeping Turtle could do it. You just remove the wiring from the old unit and remember which wire is on which terminal. Easily remove the old unit and replace it. Reattach the wires and you are done! Maytag is a very easy unit to work with. Just remember if you ever have to replace your Terminal Block, don't forget to order the brass nuts to attach the wires. Regular nuts will overheat and cause a fire hazard.

Opened top of dryer and found high limit thermostat burned in half. Thermostat is located on top of element. Replacement of thermostat took less than 10 minutes, using phillips head screwdriver.

Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis:
1. Unplug dryer;
2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;
2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);
3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);
4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;
5. Unplug door switch;
6. Unscrew screws from #4;
7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;
8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc.
9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.
If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.

I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

Opened the top by popping the two fasteners holding it down. Did this with a screw driver. Took two screws out of the front holding collector in place and two screws out holding the front to the two other sides. Put front of dryer down on the floor. Removed old collector and used all other existing material from old collector to finish job. Wife could not believe how quick this was. Put back together was a snap too.