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ADE7 Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ADE7
76 - 90 of 1444

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Change dryer belt
15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Bayport, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I p opped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.
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Time clock not moving .Not enough heat
16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • PHILIP from LONG ISLAND CITY, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.
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dryer would tumble but had no heat
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daryl from Pine Island, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I opened the front panel and removed the heating element from the rear of the dryer by removing the two screws that held it in place, and slid the element out. using a mulitester I checked the High limit Fuse and it was not working.I ordered the part and replaced it. Everything worked great for two days and the dryer stopped heating again . My brother asked if I had replaced the thermostat because something burned out the fuse. He was right. I ordered both parts and replaced them. Every thing is working just fine. Save some money and time by replacing both parts at the same time.
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Dryer turned on and ran but no heat
17 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Laurence from Chino, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I watched your video on your website first and followed the simple instructions. I completed the repair in 40 minutes. Works like it was brand new....
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Burner would not go on on my Stack Set Dryer
16 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from North East, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!
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Switch did not turn off dryer when door opened
14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • paul from madison, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.
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Motor would shut off in two or three minutes after starting.
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James I from Henderson, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the dryer front and the drum, then disconnected the wires from the dryer motor and removed it from the motor mount, after installing the new motor in the motor mount the rest was just putting the dryer back together the same way I took it apart, the best way to do this is to print out the diagram from partsselect.com and follow it step by step, this was so easy everybody can do this and save alot of money for the labor and the parts mark-up, try it you all can do it (SO EASY)
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Idler wheel was making a screeching noise
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Derry, NH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I first thought the drum rollers were the source and replaced those. It took me 60 minutes to get the dryer disassembled and wires labeled for reassembly the first time. Knowing how to do it for this repair made everything go quicker.
I removed the tension from the belt by pulling it away from the spring and then slipped the belt off the motor. I then removed the drum from the dryer to get to the idler arm assy.
The trickest part of this repair was putting a box wrench on the nut on the motor side of the frame. I found a 3/8" box wrench with an angled handle that worked well. I then used a 7/16" socket on the other side of the idler arm base and removed the bolt. I was careful to note the position of the tension spring so that I could put it back together correctly. I then put the new idler arm assy in place with the bolt through the frame but had some trouble keeping the nut in the box wrench. I ended up using a bit of chewing gum to keep the nut in the box wrench long enough to get it threaded!

From there it was a cinch - just put the belt back around the drum, the idler wheel and then pulled up on the arm while I slipped the belt over the motor. No more screeching!
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the drum was not turning because a broken belt
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • thomas from bloomfield, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum expo sed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.
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dryer not heating up
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from New Windsor, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helpi ng me out!!!
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The Dryer would not get hot.
14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from Bradenton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.
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The dryer was not fully drying
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.
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Mother-in-law's dryer quit heating. Her's was LPG, Replacment was NG
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROBERT from HOUSTON, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First, I inserted a screwdriver between the front panel and the top and popped the top loose. Next, there is a screw close to the top of the front panel on each side. Remove these. Next I unplugged the light switch from the front panel and removed the panel. Next, unscrew the gas line from the burner assy. and remove the screw holding the burner assy. to the frame. CAREFULLY, remove the burner assy. taking care not to break the ceramic igniter. Remove the assembly and unscrew the brass screw on the right side of the burner. Replace the screw with the new assembly furnished with the conversion kit. Remove the tube that directs the gas to the ducting. Unscrew the orifice fitting and replace with the new fittings furnished with the kit. Reinstall the tube and CAREFULLY return the burner assembly to the dryer. Screw the assy to the frame and re-connect the gas line. Replace the front panel, 2 screws, and snap the top back down onto the front panel, taking care to align the two guide pins. Connect the gas line to the dryer and install the ducting. Plug it in and test for leaks.
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Multiple long cycles to dry clothes
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Hampton, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Remove 2 screws on the front panel at the bottom of the dryer & remove front panel. Remove the black plastic "duct" from blower to lint filter by removing 3 screws. Heating element is on the back wall of the dryer in the lower left corner. 2 screws hold the heating element to the dryer wall. Remove these 2 screws. Might be a little tight to get back there. Try to be more patient than me. :) The wires on the heating element are plenty long enough to bring to the front & outside of the dryer. Remove screws holding thermostat & fuse to heating element. I wasn't sure if I needed a new thermostat or not, but it wasn't expensive so I went ahead & decided to put a new thermostat on the new heating element. I re-used the fuse from the old element, but they're not expensive either. Just notice how rthe thermostat and fuse are oriented on the old element & put them on the new element in the same orientation. I had to use pliers to get the wires off the old element's terminals. They were a little tricky to get off, but my dryer is over 10 years old. They've been on there a while. Just move 1 wire from old element to new element at a time. That way you don't have as much of a chance hooking up the wires wrong. Put new element in & everything back together. I vacuumed out the lint in the bottom of the dryer. I ran the dryer for over 30 minutes with no clothes in it to break the new heating element in. You're good to go! You CAN do this yourself. It's not a hard repair to do. Don't buy a new dryer or pay an appliance repair guy! Thanks to PartSelect for quick delivery & posting these instructions from other people!!
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Internal vent inside the drum was coated in black (plastics from use)
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rich from New Albany, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Loosened the 3 screws inside of the drum
2. Removed the entire back of the dryer (lots of screws)
3. Removed the old vent (there are 2 screws at the bottom that hold it in)
4. Install new vent (put the screws back in)
5. Close up back and proceed to put all of the screws back
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All Instructions for the ADE7
76 - 90 of 1444