ACM2 - Instructions
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broken glass tray
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paula from Broomfield, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This had to be the easiest repair job on record. When the new glass tray for the inside of the microwave came from you, I just took out the old chipped one, tossed it in the trash and then washed and dried the new one and set it inside on the turntable rollers.
DONE in less than 60 seconds. I wash and dry FAST.
Than ... Read more ks for having a web site that was so easy to find the replacement part.
DONE in less than 60 seconds. I wash and dry FAST.
Than ... Read more ks for having a web site that was so easy to find the replacement part.
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replacing light bulb in microwave
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from W LAFAYETTE, IN
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
We have a Jenn-Air microwave and oven combination that is installed as a "stack" in a cabinet. The light bulb had burned out, and I read some of the posts on the partselect.com site about how others performed this replacement; ours was a bit different.
To replace the microwave light bulb, we had to remove the entire microwave and ... Read more oven stack from the cabinet. There were four anchor screws on the sides (two on each side) of the microwave that were driven in perpendicular to the face of the microwave. There were four more screws that were on the sides of the oven that could be accessed once the oven door was open.
With those anchor screws removed, we had to carefully pull the entire microwave / oven stack from the cabinet to reach the top cover of the microwave. We used an old wooden crate to hold the front of the oven and left the back of the oven resting in the cabinet enclosure. This gave enough room to access the screws on the top cover of the microwave, without having to lift the entire stack down to the floor.
At this point, I could unplug the microwave power cord, which was plugged in to a socket built into the top of the conventional oven part of the stack.
The top cover of the microwave was attached with regular Phillips head screws, so those were easy to remove. Several other instructions indicated I would need a torx or star drive screwdriver, but I did not.
Once the screws were removed from the top cover of the microwave, the cover can slide rearward to be removed. However, there are two metal strips that run vertically along the sides of the microwave and at the top of the microwave, these bends over at a right angle over the top of the microwave. The top cover has tabs that sticks up vertically from the cover, so that the bent strips prevents the cover tabs from passing as the cover is slid backwards. The vertical strips have several screws connecting it to the body of the microwave. On one of the vertical strips, I removed the two of these screws closest to the top of the microwave. Then, I gently pushed a wood chisel, because of the bevel angle, between the vertical metal strip and the microwave body. This moved the bent-over portion of the vertical strip far enough away from the microwave that the tab on the top cover cleared the strip, and I could then remove the top cover.
With the top cover removed, I could see the old light bulb. It is attached with a push-in electrical connection that was easily pulled off. One Phillips head screwdriver held the old bulb in place towards the rear of the microwave. Towards the front of the microwave, a small plastic post holds the front of the bulb. I removed the screw and pulled out the old bulb.
The new bulb fits easily into the same plastic post and screw connection. However, the new bulbs connector prongs are bent at a 90 degree angle to the original bulb. Instead of sticking straight out from the microwave, which was how the old bulb was configured, the new bulb prongs pointed to the right side of the microwave (as viewed from the front). Fortunately, the wiring harness in the microwave that connects to the light bulb had a zip tie that was loose enough to get enough slack for the push-in connector to reach the new bulb's prongs.
After the bulb was in, I reversed the steps described above, making sure to leave the chisel in place until the top cover had been secured back in place. Once the chisel was removed from the vertical metal strip, the bent portion again would prevent easy removal of the top cover. I made sure to plug the microwave power cord back into the outlet on the conventional oven, then we slid the entire unit back into the cabinet enclosure, and I put the anchor screws back to hold the stack into the cabinet.
Three of us worked on this - mostly to help pull the stack out of the cabinet and to help steady it while the front was resting on the wood crate. This is not a single-person job. It was not terribly difficult, but the number of steps is very tedious. I found a helpful YouTube video "How to uninstall/install a Jenn-Air JMC8127DD/JMC8130DD Microwave Oven" posted by Ali The Handy Man. Being able to see that the microwave and oven stack was connected by a "bridge" (as Ali calls it) was a major help in tackling this.
After this, we suspect that Jenn-Air must have not wanted any repairs to their appliances. As I said above, this repair to replace a light bulb seemed unnecessarily tedious.
To replace the microwave light bulb, we had to remove the entire microwave and ... Read more oven stack from the cabinet. There were four anchor screws on the sides (two on each side) of the microwave that were driven in perpendicular to the face of the microwave. There were four more screws that were on the sides of the oven that could be accessed once the oven door was open.
With those anchor screws removed, we had to carefully pull the entire microwave / oven stack from the cabinet to reach the top cover of the microwave. We used an old wooden crate to hold the front of the oven and left the back of the oven resting in the cabinet enclosure. This gave enough room to access the screws on the top cover of the microwave, without having to lift the entire stack down to the floor.
At this point, I could unplug the microwave power cord, which was plugged in to a socket built into the top of the conventional oven part of the stack.
The top cover of the microwave was attached with regular Phillips head screws, so those were easy to remove. Several other instructions indicated I would need a torx or star drive screwdriver, but I did not.
Once the screws were removed from the top cover of the microwave, the cover can slide rearward to be removed. However, there are two metal strips that run vertically along the sides of the microwave and at the top of the microwave, these bends over at a right angle over the top of the microwave. The top cover has tabs that sticks up vertically from the cover, so that the bent strips prevents the cover tabs from passing as the cover is slid backwards. The vertical strips have several screws connecting it to the body of the microwave. On one of the vertical strips, I removed the two of these screws closest to the top of the microwave. Then, I gently pushed a wood chisel, because of the bevel angle, between the vertical metal strip and the microwave body. This moved the bent-over portion of the vertical strip far enough away from the microwave that the tab on the top cover cleared the strip, and I could then remove the top cover.
With the top cover removed, I could see the old light bulb. It is attached with a push-in electrical connection that was easily pulled off. One Phillips head screwdriver held the old bulb in place towards the rear of the microwave. Towards the front of the microwave, a small plastic post holds the front of the bulb. I removed the screw and pulled out the old bulb.
The new bulb fits easily into the same plastic post and screw connection. However, the new bulbs connector prongs are bent at a 90 degree angle to the original bulb. Instead of sticking straight out from the microwave, which was how the old bulb was configured, the new bulb prongs pointed to the right side of the microwave (as viewed from the front). Fortunately, the wiring harness in the microwave that connects to the light bulb had a zip tie that was loose enough to get enough slack for the push-in connector to reach the new bulb's prongs.
After the bulb was in, I reversed the steps described above, making sure to leave the chisel in place until the top cover had been secured back in place. Once the chisel was removed from the vertical metal strip, the bent portion again would prevent easy removal of the top cover. I made sure to plug the microwave power cord back into the outlet on the conventional oven, then we slid the entire unit back into the cabinet enclosure, and I put the anchor screws back to hold the stack into the cabinet.
Three of us worked on this - mostly to help pull the stack out of the cabinet and to help steady it while the front was resting on the wood crate. This is not a single-person job. It was not terribly difficult, but the number of steps is very tedious. I found a helpful YouTube video "How to uninstall/install a Jenn-Air JMC8127DD/JMC8130DD Microwave Oven" posted by Ali The Handy Man. Being able to see that the microwave and oven stack was connected by a "bridge" (as Ali calls it) was a major help in tackling this.
After this, we suspect that Jenn-Air must have not wanted any repairs to their appliances. As I said above, this repair to replace a light bulb seemed unnecessarily tedious.
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Turntable Motor gears stripped
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matthew from Edmond, OK
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Had a Trim Kit to remove, just 2 screws on the front to pull it out. Had to remove the tamperproof screws on the back (the outer shell is held on by them). I had to goto a local hardware store as nothing anywhere mentioned I needed this special tool (NOTE!!!!!!!) The bottom had normal phillips head screws. Note: I did not take the entire
... Read more
shell off, just bent it enough so the base plate could be pulled out. This exposed the motor, which strangely enough is NOT held in by any screws, just notches it slides in. Took the old motor out, came out VERY easily (only 1 plug to pull out). The new motors flange tab was bent a little bit so I had to use pliers to bend it back flat so it would fit in the notch on the bottom of the microwave (very easy). Overall A bit difficult due to special tool needed 9at least for me)
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Magnitron failed
8 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from WILTON, NH
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row.
1. Unplug device.
2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet.
3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover ... Read more .
4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place.
5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws.
6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3).
7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.
1. Unplug device.
2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet.
3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover ... Read more .
4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place.
5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws.
6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3).
7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.
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interior lamp burnt out
11 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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leverett from villa ridge, MO
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
remove outer cover of microwave, (special recessed star bit required) change bulb, unplug and remove 1 phillips screw.
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Defective door interlock switches
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from DELTA, CO
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
Removed each switch (3) and checked them with multi-meter; got intermittent readings on two of the three. Also broke of a piece of the frame that holds the switches trying to remove them (old, exposed to heat and moisture over the years caused the plastic to become brittle and the wiring connectors were also hard to disconnect probably be
... Read more
cause of heat and moisture over the years).
Went to PartSelect web site and discovered the three switches and frame were bundled in to one part number, 43501A. So, I called and spoke with a very knowledgeable technician and she explained why plus helped me order the part over the phone. When I received the part, the switches were already mounted in the frame and the frame was modified compared to the OEM frame. As I began to remove the old frame, I discovered why the new frame was modified. It was as if PartSelect had done many of these door interlock repairs and they knew exactly where and how to modify the frame and communicated this with the manufacturer, because the new frame installation was very easy, there was nothing hard about installing the new frame with the switches already in place. I then reconnected the wiring to the switches and tested the microwave and it works fine now, Problem solved, Thanks PartSelect.com
Went to PartSelect web site and discovered the three switches and frame were bundled in to one part number, 43501A. So, I called and spoke with a very knowledgeable technician and she explained why plus helped me order the part over the phone. When I received the part, the switches were already mounted in the frame and the frame was modified compared to the OEM frame. As I began to remove the old frame, I discovered why the new frame was modified. It was as if PartSelect had done many of these door interlock repairs and they knew exactly where and how to modify the frame and communicated this with the manufacturer, because the new frame installation was very easy, there was nothing hard about installing the new frame with the switches already in place. I then reconnected the wiring to the switches and tested the microwave and it works fine now, Problem solved, Thanks PartSelect.com
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Arcing had caused burned turntable and melted connection to sec. motor.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from MOUNTAIN VIEW, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Note: also had to replace turntable. Removed top cover using secure driver set. Placed microwave on it's front, using a soft towel. Removed edge screws from bottom plate (leaving 4 screws in center attached to heavy transformer). Separated bottom plate from body of microwave (leaving transformer wires still attached) exposing Synchrono
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us motor. Removed two screws holding motor and electrical plug. Swapped new motor in its place. Re-attached bottom plate with its screws. Placed microwave onto it normal position. Re-attached top cover with its secure screws. Installed new turntable inside.
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Turntable stopped turning
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ed from MILLS RIVER, NC
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed micro bottom - 5 screws. One screw on the motor and a clip. Reversed the sequence, turned it on and watched it turn.
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Turn table in the Micro was broken due to the plastic 3 wheel mechanism that cracked. t
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cesa Lynn from Montgomery, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I could just set the new whirly gig in the bottom hole of the micro and it worked. The new part was delivered in 24 hours of my order and hence fixed in 24 hours. Thanks so much Part Select
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Turn table would not turn
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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maxine from CLEBURNE, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took the cover off, had a lot of screws but easy. Removed the old motor and inserted the new motor. Replace the metal cover and it was ready to go. Can't believe I have waited so long to do this. I was going to replace the microwave but could not find the correct size to fit the cabinet.
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No heat
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from SANTA CLARA, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
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Old roller piece broken
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Scottsboro,, AL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Took out the old, put in the new.
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My turntable wouldn't turn
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Yvette from Riverdale, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I took the turntable roller guide, dropped it into the hole, put the plate back on the turntable roller guide; and voila!!! It worked!
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window ac thermostat stuck in on position
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Walter from Chesapeake, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Part came quickly, was the right part and went in quickly. Only had to drill out 3 rivets anre reasemble with sheet metal screws.
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Plate stopped rotating - discovered plastic piece that spinner fit into was broken
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from STAMFORD, CT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove 2 Philips Head screws on left side of microwave. Remove 3 Philips Head screws from bottom rear of microwave. Remove 4 security screws from back of microwave (holding the cover to frame). These are the security type tips that are like a Torx bit, but need to be hollow in middle to accommodate pin in center of screw. Then back pl
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ate of microwave with heavy transformer still attached slides up and away. The wires aren't long enough to allow it to rest flat on the bench, but weight is low so it's easy to hold it upright while removing the motor unit. Separate connector from motor (simple) Remove motor by unscrewing 1 phillips head screw and rotating counter-clockwise a tiny bit. Remove Motor. Reverse steps to re-assemble. Note that there are a series of tabs at the bottom of the back cover that fit into holes in the baseplate of microwave. It can be a little tricky to line them up with the weight of the transformer, but it's not too bad. Once lined up, it drops in nicely and all the various screw holes line up. The microwave is a bad cooker when the plate doesn't spin. This simple and inexpensive fix saved me from having to buy a whole new oven.
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