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ACD2 - Instructions

All Instructions for the ACD2
46 - 60 of 991

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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The old motor wouldn't turn the fan.
24 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from Hesston, KS
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench set
After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Remova l of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.
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Would not make ice.
20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Lanse, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench set
I changed out the water valve behind the refrigerator that controls when the ice maker and water dispencer receives water. It was easy. I removed the lower back panel to get access to the valve. Pulled the hoses out by pushing up on the ring between the valve and hose and the hose came right out. I disconected the power lines. Of course t he water was disconected and power plug out prior to starting the job. I replaced the valve and reconnected the lines and power. I put the back panel back in place and turned the water on to check for leaks. The next day I had ice in the ice maker.
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The water filter inlet tube cracked
29 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • wade from Waterford, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Begin by turning off the water source from the wall, next using a line wrench, remove the brass water line fitting nut from the copper water line from the wall. Next remove the second water line from the plastic push fitting by depressing the fitting to release the water line. Remove the Styrofoam insulation piece that resides between the water lines that run into the refrigerator, then pull the old filter head out. Reverse steps for installation.
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Ice Maker broke at the begining of summer !!!!!!
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darrell from Pepperell, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator i n less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.
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The compressor would try to start,but would not.
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alfred from Port Charlotte, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I pulled the whole unit(condenser&overload relay)
with my hand & disconnected the wire connected
to it & Replaced it with the new one.Peace of cake.
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Steady water leak.
19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ben from Plainwell, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
It's good to note, first, that the dual water valve on Amana fridges are notorious for cracking and leaking, either due to the fridge being left in the cold (the water inside the valve freezes and expands, cracking the water valve) or from issues related to shipping. Read the reviews, here - it's a common issue, but easy and cheap to fix yourself. Here's my steps. I first turned off the water source to fridge by closing the correct valve. Next, I unplugged the fridge from electrical and from the water source line. When looking at the back of the fridge, I unscrewed the bottom left cover plate from the fridge body. After unscrewing and removing the plate, I made sure to note which lines came from which areas of the fridge and where the lines ended up at the dual water valve, and how they were routed through the plate and into the valve. The way this fridge is setup, the water source line screws into a main line that heads to the top of the fridge where the water filter is (like a "line in"). There's another line that heads back down to the bottom of the fridge (line out). The "line out" inserts into the outside plug of the dual water valve. The two lines coming out of the dual water valve are different sizes. Make sure to note which line goes to the icemaker and which line goes to the water dispenser inside the fridge. Once I knew which lines needed to go where, I grabbed my empty bucket, pulled the water lines out of the dual water valve with some pliers, and emptied the water into the bucket. After cleaning up any water splatter with my dry towels, I unscrewed the dual water valve from the plate. Once the old dual water valve was removed, I replaced it with the new valve and screwed it back into the plate. I cut off just a bit of the water line ends that were damaged due to pulling with the pliers, and then inserted them back into the correct spots on the dual water valve. I screwed the plate back into the fridge, reconnected the water source line (make sure to use some kind of water sealer tape or putty), plugged the fridge back into the electrical socket, turned the water source valve back on, and waited for leaks. No leaks! Once I was convinced there weren't any leaks, I had to bleed the water lines for about 20-30 minutes (it takes FOREVER...) by putting my bucket under the water dispenser inside the fridge and holding the water button for what seemed like an eternity - until the water was streaming steadily out of the dispenser. Voila! Good as new! Keep in mind that I didn't go through ALL the minute parts of each step - that would take too long. I'm believing that you'll be perceptive enough to catch the small things like looking at how the lines are routed into the dual water valve and where things are screwed into. Use your BRAIN, and you'll be fine. :-)
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Refrigerator wouldn't get cold enough.
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ty from Wentzville, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not t he thermostat or adapter control.
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The crushed ice agitator kept slipping out of the bracket.
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Plano, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
With the repair parts ordered and received from PartsSelect.com, I was able to install a new Ice Bucket and the crushed ice agitator assembly. This simple repair has the refrigerator dispencing ice like new.
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ice buildup in freezer
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Lincoln, NE
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The part was an exact match to the old one and the instructions from your website were all I needed to complete this repair. My wife thinks I am somewhat of an appliance genius now. Could not have done it without you...thanks
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Bottom freezer door hinge broke
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Blue Springs, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.
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Freezer handle bracket keeps loosening
23 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leslie from Shirley, MA
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
Replacement of freezer door handle.
1. Removed freezer door handle. First I read the freezer door handle removal instructions in the Amana refrigerator user guide. Removing the handle requires inserting a plastic card at least 1.5 inches under the left end of the right side of the handle so it releases the butterfly clip latch on t he freezer door. Next I pulled the right side of the handle to lift it away from the freezer door. Then still holding the handle away from the door, at the spot that is 1.5 inches from the inside of the right side of the handle, I held the plastic card vertically and slid one corner of it between the handle and the freezer door and worked the card down until it released the butterfly clip latch. Keeping the card at the same space under the handle so the latch was released, I then turned the card to the left until it was horizontal and was lifting the left end of the right door handle away from the freezer door. I then slid the handle across the card to the left until it cleared both door butterfly clip latches and it lifted off the door.
2. Installed freezer door handle. First I read the freezer door handle installation instructions in the Amana refrigerator user guide. The handle is curved on one edge and must be installed the curved side down. Correctly installed, the outside ends of the handle curve upward and the handle curve is down so it looks like a frowning mouth. Next holding the handle curved edge down, I turned it up so I could see the brackets and held it against the door. I lined up the handle brackets slightly to the left of the butterfly clips on the freezer door. Next I turned the handle with the brackets against the freezer door and slid it slightly to the right until the left side of the handle held onto the door butterfly clip by itself but was not latched. Then I lined up the right handle bracket with the right freezer door butterfly clip and carefully slid the whole handle to the right until I heard the left butterfly clip latch click. Next I slid the handle back slightly left once more and then slid it back to the right until I heard the right butterfly clip latch click.
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Part of cam broke off bottom of fridg. door & it quit closing automatically
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elaine from Milton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Took longer to move food from door to inside fridge & take grandkids' artwork off door, & then put it all back than it did to replace cam.
1. Used phillips head to undo 1 screw holding cover over top bracket; lifted off cover.
2. No need to have someone hold door while you remove top bracket; magnets in door gasket will hold it tight to fridge. Used socket to remove 3 screws in top bracket & lifted bracket up off top of door.
3. Door's not heavy. I stood on a sturdy chair to get better leverage. Opened the door enough to break the magnetic seal & llfted it up off bottom bracket. I moved it over just enough to get to the cam, rested the bottom of the door on the floor, & leaned it up against the open front of the fridge to help preserve chilled food.
4. Removed the 1 screw holding in the bad cam to the bottom bracket (uses smaller socket than screws on top bracket).
5. I checked part that goes up inside bottom of door & it was fine, so did not replace it.
6. Trickiest part: putting the door back on. I put a hand mirror on floor by the right corner & facing up so I could see the underpart of the door as I lifted it eased it down on the right place.
7. Closed door, made sure it was straight, replaced top hinge & cover, food, & artwork.
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evaporator coil covered in ice
18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Waukegan, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove bottom panel in freezer side to get access to the coil.Remove old heater element and defrost thermostat.Installed new hearter and thermostat.Screw back bottom panel re-start frige.
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No Problem, time to replace water filter
18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ralph from Longmont, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.
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no cooling either fridge or freezer
15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • chad from stockton, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Refrigerator was stored for about 2 years and we picked it up when the owner decided to move into an apartment and no longer needed to unit (lost home to foreclosure). Brought the unit home and it worked great for about 3 days. On the third day my wife noticed a slight electrical burning smell. I did also and quickly emptied the unit a nd hoped for the best. The unit did indeed stop working. I fancy myself a do it myselfer but I would normally not go near electricity but thought what the heck it was free if i ruin it I would give it away. After a little research i found Partselect and they had a great design and a few stories that sounded similar so i pulled the relay capacitor for the compressor and sure enough the unit showed burn marks where the unit had shorted out. Maybe a bug got in there or water, dirt but I ordered the part. I arrived in two days which was great. I installed the part and plug the unit in and crossed my fingers. Very happily the unit clicked on and has been running great ever since. thanks Partselect, while I may not be one of your big customers I will refer anyone with appliance issues to your site first.
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All Instructions for the ACD2
46 - 60 of 991