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ABR142MBGH Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the ABR142MBGH
31 - 43 of 43

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As easy as it could be
  • Phillip from Twentynine Palms, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
I have worked in maintenance field most of my adult life and all aspects and to change the oven door gasket was no challenge what so ever. It took longer to find my needle nose pliers to remove the old gasket clips and then re-install the new gasket. Maybe 10 minutes total
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light bulb socket broken
  • Blanche from Woonsocket, RI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed glass and then two screws to remove metal plate pulled out socket,disconnected two wires and installed new socket.
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Door seal was pulled out by grandson.
  • Michael P from Hickory Hills, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
finished removing door seal, used pliers to remove old securing studs. positioned new seal and pushed securing studs into existing holes and was done.
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Leveling legs were broken during the summer
  • Jayne from Willimantic, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
The range in my classroom had the leveling legs broke off by the summer staff. I ordered two new leveling legs and the night custodian replaced them in about 45 minutes and them leveled the stove. Parts were just as stated and easy to order.
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Igniters were cracked and not sparking correctly.
  • Lewzer from Whittier, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burn ers plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!
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leg was bent, also metal receiving bracket bent
  • Virginia from Oceanside, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adju st front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.
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burned out spark igniter
  • Janette from Gainesville, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.
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Rusty screws
  • Gerald from Melbourne, FL
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted sc rews it would be an easy job.
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All Instructions for the ABR142MBGH
31 - 43 of 43