ABB2222 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

unplugged the unit pulled it away from the wall removed the lower panel removed the drain installed the new replacement . removed the wiring harness and replaced it with the new one replaced the panel and plugged back in

To keep from having to pay the appliance repairman $100.00 for a diagnostic fee I just started replacing parts that were known for causing this problem. First I replaced the compressor switch and capacitor that didn't work so then I replaced the damper controller then I replaced the control board then I saw that the evaporator fan wasn't ... Read more spinning so I replaced the evaporator fan motor and the bimetal defrost thermostat. That was the problem I wish I would have checked that first. But it works like new now.

I loosened the two top screws, removed the bottom screw, lifted up on ice maker and slid it off, unplugged the wire from refrig. I transfered the wire to the new icemaker, pluged it back in, placed it on the two screws, installed lower screw, tighten top screws. Total time spent less than 15 minutes. The ice maker cost $125.00 with freig ... Read more ht. Sears wanted $374.00

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from ... Read more the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

First turned off the water at the valve. Next I undid the 5 screws holding the plate that holds the pump. Next disconnected the power connectors, then the water lines. Next undid the screw holding the pump, removed pump. Next, mounted the new pump to the plate, this was tricky because it has to fit kind of upside down, so you have to ... Read more wrangle it into the proper position then align the screw hole. Next, secured it to the plate with the screw, re-connected the water lines, then the power. Before mounting it back to the fridge, I tested to see if it worked, well, it didn't. My heart sank. I re-checked all connections, I redid the entire process, disconnected and re-connected and still did not work. I researched the problem online and someone posted maybe the water filter might be clogged or defective. So I removed the water filter and put the stop plug in, and it worked perfectly. I went and exchanged the filter and plugged it in and still had the same problem. I am now suspecting the filter receptacle is the fault, but we will do without that for the time being. But the pressure is much better so changing the pump was still necessary. All in all a very interesting repair. I learned a lot about how the system works and now I need to replace the damper, it is very noisy.

Pop loose the plastic grate at the bottom.

Locate and remove the wheel leveling screw from the front bottom corner.

Remove cotter pin from the pin that mounts the wheel assembly to the refrigerator. Tap out the mounting pin.

Lift out the wheel assembly.

Remove the Roller pin from the wheel asse ... Read more mbly. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. A hack saw will also probably work.

Install the new roller pin and wheel into the wheel assembly. Use a hammer or vice to peen over the end of the roller pin.

Reinstall and adjust wheel assembly.

This gasket is just friction fit into a molded groove. Easy to pull out and replace.
When I googled looking for how to.. all sites described unscrewing a keeper. None described that this (and maybe others) simply has the push-in design.

I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small probl ... Read more em I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

Removed the hinge cover, removed three hinge screws, removed door. Then I used a screwdriver to pry out the hinge bushings, pushed the new ones in and replaced the door. Both Maytag and Lowe's (who held the extended warranty) said that the door was not a repairable item and would have to replace the whole door. Since that would cost mo ... Read more re than the value of the fridge, they voided the warranty and returned my cost. Too bad we didn't know about Part Select, we would have held their feet to the fire.

Went on line to find replacement valve.
Received the new part and compared to broken part. Both the same.
CAREFULLY removed the broken valve. Paying attention to how it came off.
CAREFULLY put it on the same way it came off.
This is a plug and play part. Just had to reconnect the water line.
Saved at least 75 do ... Read more llars.
Easy to find the part on your site.

I watched video for repair and it went just like it showed. piece of cake

If you can take the old one out and reverse the procedure, there isn't much more to it than that.

Replaced the electronics board. Fairly easy job. Video helped enormously. Programing is awkward.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed pa ... Read more nel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.