AA99A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the old fan; cut the wire and spliced in the new fan and reassembled. A little over one hour. Refrig is working perfectly now with lower settings. It is definitely off much more than on now.

Removed bad motor with socket set and pliers then removed the connectors from the old motor and soldered them on the new one. Then installed new motor. Works like new! Problem Solved! Easy fix!

The kit I recieved was perfect. All parts fit and where a perfect match. I will give you an A+ in handling my order and shocked by speed of your delivery.

My husband put in in, no problem and all is well. My husband is a mechanic for large machinery/motors so installation was no problem. Thanks, better than buying a new fridge!!!

My Son who is not an appliance repairman did it for me. He had some difficulty getting the nuts and bolts loose mainly. Sorry I'm not much help other than that! I would like to compliment you on your fast service, first time ordering from you and it was for an older model refrigerator that my repairman said he couldn't find. It's ... Read more working fine now and I'm a satisfied customer!

just had to remove the fan motor the hard thing is getting down to it

First, watched video on Part Select Website. Very good. Pulled Appliance out from wall, Pulled the power plug, and removed the back shield covering the working parts of the unit. Found the fan and it was almost the same setup as on the video except that I could not get to one of the screws holding the motor in place so had to remove t ... Read more he entire bracket with the fan. Not too hard. Cleaned away dust and gunk around the site and noticed that the fan pulled air through a tunnel-like condenser coil that was packed with gunky lint...this is what probably killed the motor. I cleaned out the tunnel with the bottle brushes and vacuum and installed the new motor / bracket assembly. Then replaced the shielding around the fan and the back cover .panel. This is important because these form the channel that guides air flow throughout the condenser coils. This particular refrigerator has a barrier underneath which guides air flow from the front left to the condenser, through the fan, over the evaporator drip pan and out the right front. I cleaned all the lint and gunk from this area as well. I also made an air filter (cut from a furnace filter) and wedged it in front of the air entry section. This should keep the condenser coil cleaner over time but you have to remember to change the filter once a year. Probably should clean the condenser coil every 5 years as well. This unit has been very reliable over 20 years and may well go for another 20. Good luck with your repair.

I folded in half twice! and took the back off the fridge(cardboard) and took one brace off and just took the screws off the fan from the other two braces. Turned the fan enough to get at the wires for the fan and cut them off an inch from the old fan, stripped the insulation and wire nutted them to new fan. Make sure they don't interfere ... Read more with the new fan and put the new fan in place put the screws in and we're making ice and cold fridge again.

The video of the repair is a helpful guide, but my refrigerator has the compressor very close to the condenser fan motor. With the compressor comes the copper tubing that is all in the way. I had to carefully bend them now and then to allow me to get my hands in position. The how to is easy, but the working with tools in cramped quarters ... Read more was difficult. I think my Maytag side by side model makes for this job to be difficult, maybe yours may not be so bad. I took a couple of hours to complete. After the first hour, I covered the bare wires, and plugged the frig back in so it could do some cooling. I placed a small in front on the condenser to blow across it. Had a little break, then finished the job.

removed condenser fan -located behind refrigerator next to compressor, Not much clearance to work, there are 3 screws to remove from condensing motor,sounds easy but clearance is lacking to remove them ,(takes alot of PATIENCE). Then you have to remove the fan blades to be able to get clearance to remove motor!! I wouldn't reccommend tryi ... Read more ng this repair unless you are a pro.

It wasn't quite as easy to get to the bolts as the video showed. The lay out of the part wasn't exactly like the video either. However, I managed to put the new part in. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the problem. At first the fridge cycled on and off but after 12 hrs it started to freeze liquids again. Since the appliance was 17 years ol ... Read more d we opted to just get a new one.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world whe ... Read more re my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged th ... Read more e unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.