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A900S Maytag Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the A900S
106 - 120 of 266

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Washer would not agitate.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • dominic from Weirton, WV
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Since my missus keeps her appliances like new, it behoves us to buy something of good quality when new. We did that. Now, after almost 20 years, the washer complained it needed new belts, which I complied. Tilted it up against the wall after pulling power cord. Removed both belts and replaced. Adjusted pump belt by loosening pump and then retightening. This is easy to get to by removing front (removing 2 philips screws). Piece of cake.
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Worn belts
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from HOMESTEAD, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Slipped on belts no tools needed.
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Washer drum stopped spinning; Very loud squealing with burning rubber smell
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Caitlin from ALBANY, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
We were not sure if the problem was the belts since they were not completely broken or overly worn down, but decided to try to put new ones on given the burning rubber smell and some light smoke coming from beneath the washer when it was on the spin cycle and the drum would not spin. We found some how to videos online and through the part select customer experiences, we ordered the belts and got them within 2 days. We put the new belts on, which is fairly easy and quick to do with the proper tools once you get the front panel of the washer off. The new belts seemed to have done the trick, as the washer began spinning again with no odd sounds or smells once the new belts were installed, and it has been running great so far. I highly recommend ordering from this site, as the parts are the real factory parts and are easy to find an order based on your appliance model. I found the pricing and convenience, as well as knowing the parts would be right and the best quality, to be the best part of this site, as ordering from other online retailers may land you with the wrong parts or kits with parts you don't necessarily need.
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pump was leaking water
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Toni from Glendale, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug washer and shut off water valves. Remove water hoses from the faucets and caught the water in the hoses in a bucket. I removed the drain hose from the back of the washer and caught the water in the bucket. Remove front panel by removing 2-screws at bottom and tilting it out to come off. Disconnected the hoses to the pump and caught most of the water in the bucket.. An old towel stuffed under the bottom pan of the washer, under the pump hole caught most of the rest of the water. Tip the washer on its back and removed the belt coming from the motor. Removed 3-screws that hold the pump on and angled the pulley end through the hole in the bottom of the washer. I just reversed the procedure to install the new pump and everything else. I would have replaced the hoses and belts, but I had just done that about a couple of years ago, when I replaced the connector at the top back of the washer for the hose from the pump and hose to the drain in the wall, that had a crack in it and was leaking.
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Washer is 27 years old. The washer lid bumpers were just worn out with age. It has been in constant use all these years raising 4 children with no other service or repairs. It has a matching dryer with the same track record. What a testament!
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from MOUNTAIN BRK, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the front panel with a screw driver, removed the old bumpers with a pair of pliers, replaced the bumpers and replaced the panel. All was very simple and took no time. The video on your website was most helpful. Thanks
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Agitator in washer wobbles
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Roland from Hudson, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Loosened the set screw and removed the agitator, found nothing wrong. Replaced the agitator and tightened set screw, no more wobble.
This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)

First time I ha d a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !

Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.

Great Company to deal with!
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Bad injector tube
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Corey from Mehoopany, PA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
Could not complete because sent the wrong part (just a seal instead of the tube) several times, in spite of talking on the phone for hours. Eventually gave up and ordered from another company.
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30-Year Old Maytag Model 408 Washer Tank Leaking
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Bedford, MA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.
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leaking gear box oil at bottom was the original problem. Replaced bottom oil seal.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Patrick Luke from Loma, CO
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Then found agitator shaft was rusted to spin shaft. Worked on that for awhile. Motor then burnt out. I quit and bought new machine. I had ordered a top end seal from you guys. I trashed the machine before your seal arrived. Called you. Nice lady said she would send an E mail so I could return unused seal. That message has not arr ived yet.
Pat Wehling
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Agitator won't move, belt wore out after 24 years.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Austin, TX
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed 2 Philip screws from bottom front panel. The belts came as a set, so pay attention to the belt sizes when replacing them. Have had the new belts installed now for a week or longer with no issues. Looks like a good fix.
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Washing machine was leaking water around the bottom tub seal.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from MENASHA, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Found the parts I needed on your website along with a video that showed exactly how to do the repair. Set my iPad on the dryer and followed along step by step. Never would have tried something like this without your helpful information.
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Wet close after spin cycle
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • George from BERKELEY, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
I replaced the 3 screws because they were rusty. Then I replaced the Drain pump
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Belts did,nt work .Need clutch assm.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell B from AUBURN, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Install belts.
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Washer stopped draining
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Basil from SAINT CHARLES, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed wet close and removed 99% of all the water with a simple sifon hose and sponges. Diconnected electric and water supply hoses. Layed washer on its back. Removed front of washer. Disconnected hoses to water pump and checked for blockage. None. You need to capture the risidual water from the hoses and the pump if you are working in an area that cannot tolerate spills. Pulled pump out (three screws) put a screwdriver and blocked the pump impellar and rotate the punps pully. Pully rotaded freely so the pump is bad. The two belts were pretty worn out so I replaced them also. Hooked up everything in reverse. Adjusted the tension of the belts as required. The drive belt for the pump should be pinched to 1/4". Checked the moter glides also. Put everything back together, checked for leaks and did a load of wash. Everything good. Dismanteling and diagnostics and clean up took about 30'. Assembly took another 30'. Purts fit perfectly.
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Washer would not agitate, smell of something burning
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Sharon from RIVERVIEW, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Based on info from website, sounded like it was the Belt Kit that needed replacing. While waiting for the Belt Kit, decided to take the Agitator out to have a "look-see". OMG! There was liquid fabric softener gunk so thick in, around, underneath the agitator that the unit could not get traction. The burning smell was the gunk getting hot as the agitator tried to work. After a thorough cleaning of the agitator and anything relating to it's ability to agitate, my Maytag is performing like it was brand new! I'm keeping the Belt Kit, because my washer is older and I've heard from friends and family that have purchased the new water restricted units, absolutely hate them; like the "low flow" toilets, instead of flushing once, you now have to flush 5 times. They are washing more smaller loads and double rinsing each load to get their clothes clean and free of residue. I'm a 69 year old woman who finds your website and your marvelous contributors an absolute Blessing!
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All Instructions for the A900S
106 - 120 of 266