A8650 Maytag Washer - Instructions

removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.

My washer filled up and wouldn't drain at all.

I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.

I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.

I followed the supplied directions to remove covers, unbolt tub springs, and expose the area needed to replace the damper pads. I cleaned the area with acetone and applied a rubber adhesive (not supplied). I used tire patch compound because that is what I had on-hand. I positioned the pads and after they had dried 1/2 hour, lubricated th ... Read more em with the supplied grease. I reassembled the washer and it is now smooth and well behaved.

The washer leaked only when i used warm or hot water. I found that the rubber injector valve would get to soft when using hot water,allowing the water to leak through and bubble out and onto the floor. I went ahead and replaced the injector nozzle, injector sleeve and the rubber injector valve. I ordered the parts monday morning and they ... Read more arrived the next day. Excellent service.

I took the front panel off the machine and then removed the two screws that held the top on. Cut the hose clamps off the hoses and replace the injector sleeve, valve, housing, and hose to tub. I am not sure what the function of this is, other than to inject air into the water before it goes into the tub. Very easy to do if you know how ... Read more to open up the washing machine.

Went on the PartSelect website, input the problem, and got the Water Inlet Valve as the diagnosis. When the part arrived, I viewed the short video on replacing the Water Inlet Valve and just followed the instructions. It could not have been easier. After turning off both the hot and cold water and pulling the plug from the wall socket, ... Read more I removed the screw holding the bracket and valve to the machine; removed the 2 screws holding the valve to the bracket; removed the wire harness ends from each solenoid on the valve; replaced the valve with the new one and reattached the wire harness, followed by reattaching the bracket to the valve, and assembling to the machine.

replace lint filter under agitator, remove 1 screw, lift out agitator and replace filter screen.

My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The swit ... Read more ch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension m ... Read more ade it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!

removed back of control panel to find that a mouse chewed the air tube. tried to splice it with a barb connector, it did not work. Ordered part received it 2 days later and installed it. I would recommend buying parts from these folks!

By doing the work yourself, not only gives you the good feeling you did it yourself and works just like it was when it was new and to know there's part's you can still get from part places like these! Like I say to my wife ( if they meaning a repair shop can do so can't I ). Course changing a motor in a car that's a different story, I'll ... Read more let someone else to do that. To do the repair I took off the front cover of the washer exposing the tub, motor and other things. But the very first thing I did is unplug the power ( I hate the bad storys that if I only turned off the power ? ) then I took off the cover over the motor and changed the switch. And all in reverse. And plug power back in. Started up just fine.

Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Se ... Read more t washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wren ... Read more ch it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.

remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!