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A64HN-4TKVW-R Admiral Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Igniter Switch on the burner was constantly on
8 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roman from West Caldwell, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
To get to the switch I had to remove the knobs and the front panel of the burner valves. There were some dozen screws, top and bottom holding the panel in-place.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacin ... Read more g the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacin ... Read more g the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.
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Oven would not maintain temperature
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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KATHY from PLEASANT GAP, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is l
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ike new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.
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The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured wi
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th the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
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oven would not turn on flame
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Secaucus, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment.
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Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
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Just unscred the 2 screw on the Thermometer
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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WILLIAM J from JERSEY CITY, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and unscrew the 2 screws on the thermometer inside the stove and unplugged the white plastic in the back of the stove and I had to put the new extra piece that came with the sensor kit as it was needed because the socket were different.
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oven would not come to set heat
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ralph from Portsmouth, NH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
slide out stove remove rear cover (6 screws) to access sensor plug . remove two screws from inside oven area and remove part,replace in reverse order.
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oven wouldn't light
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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peter from marine city, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to f
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ully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!
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Crazy codes and not heating the oven properly at desired temp settings
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stan from CHICAGO RIDGE, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. Turn power off and loosen and remove screws. Pull out sensor from mounting hole and expose wire connector. Remove old sensor. Select appropriate wire adaptor and reconnect the sensor. Carefully push connector through hole and secure with screws removed previously. Turn power back on and cycle oven to make sure oven operates properly. I
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f you have an oven thermometer it can be used to compare set point of oven to thermometer to make sure readings are the same. All done! Happy wife can now bake cookies again and now I can go back to man cave for other projects!
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Oven and burners wouldn't light
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kory from Collingswood, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Easy repair. I removed the module housing at the back of the stove (two screws) and slipped the wires off the old spark module (I had to use pliers to gently pull one or two wires off--it's an old stove). The existing wires slipped right on the new module. I did have to use the mounting adapter that came with the kit, but that was the
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fiddliest part of the whole repair. It took me longer to move the stove out and back than it did to do the repair.
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Oven wouldn't heat.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from La Crescenta, CA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pus
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hed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.
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Oven wouldn't heat/ turn on
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Diane from NEW HAVEN, MO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first
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turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.
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OVEN WOULD NOT HEAT
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from MEADVILLE, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN
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Burned up oven door gasket needed replaced.
7 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Prescott, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I started by removing the door, then trying to remove all of the screws in the oven casing. Of course the very middle screw in the bottom of the oven was rusted and dammged by use. I had to use a drill bit and remove the old screw. After dissasembly of the oven casing, I found that the lip that supports the gasket was rusted and burnt awa
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y about 3/4 in. I placed the new gasket in and found that when closed it covered this defect and sealed. I reassembled and cheked for operation.Ok! Imortant--remove the elements before removing oven casing.
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Self tapping screws stripped out, one broke in mounting hole
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from FORT WORTH, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Punched out broken screw. Drilled out damaged threads to same size as igniter mounting holes. I used nuts, bolts and lock washers to mount igniter. Would have been very easy if mounting screws had come out. Video very helpful.
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Oven ignighter no longer works
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barry from PORTERVILLE, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well Got the part within 3 days. Followed instructions to install it and it worked. One thing you need to add to your kit is replacement mounting screws (2 nuts and bolts). It turns out that the original burner because of its age, had a hard time unscrewing it. The screws were very tight and ended up stripped. I ended up using a Dremel t
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ool to cut the screws off. By now the holes were a little bigger than original so I had to put it back together with a nut and bolt that would fit the small hole. But overall this was my first repair and I would definitely order from you again. Your site's part search and documentation with video clarified it wonderfully. Great service and site!
Barry
Barry
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