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A59GN-5TVW-R Admiral Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the A59GN-5TVW-R
16 - 30 of 126

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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
16 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from FREDERICK, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answer ed my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
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my oven would not heat to proper temp
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mark from CHAMBERLAIN, SD
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. T his repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !
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replace light in oven
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from aiken, SC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
remove plate, gasket, & light cover then light. .Replace light. Put gasket on plate , insert cover. TAPE PLATE TO COVER ,then screw all in place, remove tape.
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Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aubrey from EADS, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Trace from Ofallon, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
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Burned up oven door gasket needed replaced.
7 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Prescott, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I started by removing the door, then trying to remove all of the screws in the oven casing. Of course the very middle screw in the bottom of the oven was rusted and dammged by use. I had to use a drill bit and remove the old screw. After dissasembly of the oven casing, I found that the lip that supports the gasket was rusted and burnt awa y about 3/4 in. I placed the new gasket in and found that when closed it covered this defect and sealed. I reassembled and cheked for operation.Ok! Imortant--remove the elements before removing oven casing.
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Oven erratic, not heating correctly, timer beeper sounding
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from SANTA BARBARA, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.
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ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sherri from elk horn, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.p lugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!
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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Georgene from Rock City, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your websit e. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
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Replace the oven Sensor
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Exeter, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not loo k for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
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Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • richard from SAINT MARYS, KS
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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All Instructions for the A59GN-5TVW-R
16 - 30 of 126