A490 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

Moved washer away from wall. Removed rear panel (4 screws). removed hose bracket (1 screw). use vicegrip to "open" hose spring clamp. Removed old hose, slipped spring hose clamp over new hose. "Opened" spring hose clamp put new hose over washer drain, released vicegrip. Assemble in reverse.

Watched your viedo, pulled the power plug, pulled the washer away from the wall and tilted back to expose the belts. Rolled the old belts off and put the new ones on. Just be sure to put the correct belt on the pump and agitator drive as they are a bit different. Adjusted the pump belt as described in the inclosed instructions. What was strange was the same instructions was enclosed with the aggiator drive belt which appears to not be adjustable. Once adjusted put washer back in normal position, plugged in power and was ready to go. Seems to work fine now, least no complaints from the wife.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.

I followed the step by step instructions on the video and it worked to a (T). You guys are the best. Thank you for all your help. Sincerely Eddie .

I am not going to describe the repair. The video that Part Select has on their website is exactly how our repair went. Very simple. This is the second time we have used Part Select. They have saved us a lot of money on repairmen or new purchases. I would definitely use them in the future. The videos are so easy to follow anybody can make the repairs. Also, the delivery company not only misdelivered the part but, they damaged it. When I called Part Select about the part being damaged, they immediately sent out a new part without any questions. Why aren't all companies this awesome?!

First I looked it up on the computer and clicked on Part Select's page and it came up with the part needed and then I watched the video on installing the part. It was easy to follow their instructions and the repair was made. I was so pleased with everything I ran across a man in the hardware store this morning and he was having cloths dryer trouble that I told him to just click on your site and the rest would be easy. He said he would do that. In fact I took the Wife out to dinner on just part of what money you saved me. Thanks, Harold

I watched the video and everthing went pretty well. The only problem I had was removing the Clamp Nut. My Washer is more than 10yrs. old so there is a lot of water and lime build up. I use a Cole Chisel and a Ball Pen Hammer to break the Clamp Nut. Because you can dispose of it anyway a new Clamp Nut comes with your Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit. The Tub wrench comes in handy for removing the Mounting Stem and to reseat the Mounting Stem. You are also going to need the Tub Wrench for reseating the Clamp Nut. You can order a Tub Wrench online there are various web sites.

Oh no! Imagine my shock and horror when I pulled the wash machine away from the wall, and the hose stayed behind...my dear wifey is going to be furious!!! I immediately informed her of this issue, and after ducking some thrown laundry, immediately went on partselect.com. Thankfully I'd ordered the siphon break kit earlier, so was able find the elbow immediately. I ordered it next day shipping, and it arrived one business day after. I undid the nuts around the siphon break, opened up access panel in back, removed the siphon break, installed the new elbow, reinstalled the nuts carefully (tightened one at a time going around the elbow until they were all tight), and then recovered the access panel. Viola, piece of cake!! Happy wife could now resume her laundry duties.

Repair was very easy. I watched the video once and followed all the instructions to replace the water inlet valve, injector valve and nozzle. If I see it done once, I can do the repair. I was very impressed with PartSelect's web site, instructions and video. I'm glad my wife found you on the web. Will do business with you again.

Install new siphon break connector: 1. Loosened the clamp holding the drain hose in place on the elbow at the rear of the washer. Removed the hose from the elbow. 2. Removed the round upper access plate on the rear of the washer. 3. Removed the 4 screws holding the elbow in place, thereby releasing the siphon break connector and internal drain hose inside the washer cabinet. 4. Reached through the access port, grasped the siphon break connector end of the internal drain hose, pulled it through the access port. 5. Loosened and removed the clamp on hose, then removed the old siphon break connector from the end of the hose. 6. Installed the new siphon break connector onto the hose, clamped it in place, then returned the hose into the washer cabinet through the access port and positioned it onto the elbow, tightened the part down by reinstalling 4 screws at elbow on rear of the washer and then reconnected/clamped the external drain hose onto the elbow and replaced the access port cover.