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A317 Admiral Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the A317
106 - 120 of 521

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oven would take a very long time to warm
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barry from East Islip, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
took out both racks and under tray at bottom of stove no tools required.
used a nut driver to remove both screws holding ignighter in place ,pulled wires up gentily and remove from standard clip by pushing ends in.
clip new ignighter in place push wires down again and install 2 screws . put all back together and it works like new .
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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Igniter glowed but oven would not light
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from West Mifflin, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
The repair was straight forward. Turn off gas, unplug stove. Remove the oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. The bottom plate lifts from the back. Remove two screws and plug; install new unit. Turn everything back on; proceed with baking...
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Oven Was Not Getting Hot
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joe from Duarte, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I want thank you for being there for me . If it wasn't for you I would be having thanksgiving at my mother inlaw first iremoved the two screwsthat holds thy element in place. I then pulledthe element out about 3 in and disconnected the two wires . It's easy as 1. 2. 3
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floor panel heavily stained and warped
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joel from Monroe, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
slide latches in rear of floor panel forward and remove.
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rusty drip trays
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Pam from Grand Ledge, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
finally after years of searching for trays of this size with no luck in local stores, I was able to find and purchase 2 sets, one set for my daughter, which we were able to put in place to clean up our stoves and make them more appealing . Thank-you for your prompt service.
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I needed a broiler pan
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rhoda P. from Secaucus, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.
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No spark at any of the 4 stovetop burners.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Berkeley, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the uni t. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!
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Oven would not maintain temperature
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Fresno, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I removed the oven racks, then the bottom cover over the burner. I then unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter on to the bracket on the burner tube. I then removed the storage drawer and loosened the two screws holding the metal shield in place. I then unclipped the electrical connection to the ignitor and pushed it up past the insulation. I then went back into the oven and pulled the wires and connector through. The old igniter was out!

Installation of the new one was just as easy. Screwed the new igniter onto the backet, stuck the electrical connector through the hole in the back of the burner tube, and connected it. I then replaced the shield and the storage drawer, replaced the bottom pan over the burner tube and the racks. The stove works perfectly and my wife is happy. The job couldn't be easier.
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Range burner drip pans were rusted and old
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Billye from San Antonio, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
The repair was super simple, just remove the drip pan and place new one.
The hard part was finding the drip pan for such an old model appliance. I had shopped locally here in San Antonio with no luck.
I was very happy to find them (exact match) at Part Select and the price was very reasonable. I'll use Part select in the fu ture for needed parts.
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igniter glowed but oven would not light
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • edward from euclid, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!
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Faulty oven igniter
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • joseph from CLARKS SUMMIT, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed door and bottom oven pan to expose igniter. It was held in place by two sheet metal screws. Tried to back them out but due to heat damage , they stripped. I used my versa tool with a metal blade to cut the screws. I removed the old igniter and disconnected the plug, after I guided it out from the insulation. I installed the new ig niter with two new self tapping screws after I connected the plug and guided it back through the insulation. Reinstalled the oven pan and door. I set the oven to 350° and the new igniter worked. Wife is happy and I saved the repairman fees.
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oven would not turn on
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Clymer, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and rep laced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.
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Igniter was not getting hot enough to allow burner to come on.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • ELMER from BONNEY LAKE, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took out two screws that held Igniter to burner, unbluged wires from behind and pulled them out to the front of over, replaced with new one, solved the problem of the burner not coming on,,,,
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Oven wouldn't heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from Buffalo, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the oven racks, the bottom of the stove and a v-shaped cover that was over the heating element. The old gas ignitor screwed off easily after I put W-D 40 on the nuts. I un ooked the old gas igniter and replaced it with the new one. The oven lit immediately after I replaced everything. I am very proud of my self, I feel like a femal Bob Villa. I almost bought a new range. Boy am I happy!
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All Instructions for the A317
106 - 120 of 521