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A106 - Instructions

All Instructions for the A106
106 - 120 of 535

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Water was leaking from under the front of the washer when it was used.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from Manhattan, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the e xisting screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.
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Letting to much water in.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harold from CLERMONT, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Turn water off, removed water hoses. removed plug from elec. outlet.Then remove water inlet valve.very simple.
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Noise from dryer in spin cycle,
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • curtis from ROCKDALE, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!
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Threads on old legs had been damaged in moving to new location.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from SEDONA, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .
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Broken Belts
8 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • tommy from cortlandt manor, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.
Other Parts Used:
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I spilled a pot of soup and shorted everything out had to replace these parts
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from York, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled out the burners, Freed the outside rim and removed the burnerbox with the burnned out pieces removed tham and reassembled
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Resin balls on which the top loader lid hinges had broken.
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • EL from O'Fallon, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, beg an pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.
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No cold water -- only hot
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darla from Loves Park, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of t he time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!
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Noisey water shut-off after fill cycles
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Ashburn, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I unscrewed the bottom two front phillip screws. Lifted the front panel at a right angle then popped off downward. Used a 3/8 socket to unscrew the two screws inside in the upfront corners holding the top to the sides. Pulled off the top bleach line.
Lifted the lid upward until it rested on the back wall. Unscrewed the water fill tube connected to the top side panel which to reach the inlet valve area. wrote down which color of the four wires went where. Unscrewed the back plate and disconnected the valve wires. Reversed procedure for installation. Cleaned other parts while I was in there. Installation went quick and smooth.
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Cold water barely coming in.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathy from Priest River, ID
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First thing I had to determine what was wrong. The machine had worked admirably for a 1980 model but over the last few years cold water input had reduced to almost nothing. There was also a slight hum during filling but it had been so gradual I really didn't recognize it as part of the problem.
After checking that the cold water faucet, hose and screens were okay I removed the front panel to see how water flowed inside the machine. I suspected the inlet valve on the machine was not working correctly so I looked on PartsSelect and found similar repair stories. I ordered one and it arrived in 2 days.
Repair was simple. Turn off hot and cold water and disconnect hoses from machine. Mine were on snug so it took pliers to get a turn started. Lay them in a pan to catch drippings. On the back remove the single nut above the inlet valve and lift to remove the panel. Remove the two mounting screws for the inlet valve. If needed rotate the electrical connections on the new inlet valve to match the old and transfer the wires. Remove the small output waterline and transfer it to the new valve. Mount the new valve to the panel and resecure the panel to the machine. Snugly attach the hot and cold water lines. Turn on the water and after checking for leaks you're good to go.
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The washing machine ran noisily
5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Xuanbao from Norwalk, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove the power cord and water hoses. Lay the machine on the floor. Remove two belts (washing and pumping). Unlock the screw of pulley using a hex key. Remove the broken pulley from the motor. Place in the new pulley. Lock the screw of the pulley. Install two belts. Turn the machine vertically. Plug in water hoses and power cord. Leve l the machine.
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motor went out
15 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jeff from shepherd, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
simply removed old motor and replaced with new
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Washing machine leaked when filling
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Yorktown, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
After removing the front cover and tilting up the top of the washer housing, the area of leakage was obvious. I unscrewed the clear plastic injector housing, loosened the clamp, slid the hose off of the clear plastic injector housing, and removed the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve.

I then order the pla stic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. After the parts arrived, I simply put things back together, and no more leak!

Note: When putting the plastic injector nozzle into the rubber injector valve, I used a little liquid detergent as a lube.
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Washing machine was making a weird churning sound during the wash cycle and was slowly leaking water from bottom.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jimmy from FREEPORT, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain t he water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .
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Dryer would not run
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from york, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.
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All Instructions for the A106
106 - 120 of 535