A103 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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smelled like something smoking
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sharon from ANKENY, IA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
took front panel off had 2 screws, propped up washer in front, took belts off with hands and put new ones on in reverse order One belt was badly cracked. I am 77 year old female, if I can do it, anybody can. great service on getting belts too. Thank you
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No tub spin, burning smell.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ginsbach from PHOENIX, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Partselect.com gave me a very helpful list of parts per symptom. Said that there is an 88% chance that belts were my problem. Since the machine is 200 miles away I ordered two other parts as well. Belts fixed it! Took front cover off (not totally necessary). When the machine is tilted back belts are exposed underneath. Two belts later I w
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as up and running. This site is really great.
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old belts slipping squealing, rubber shavings on floor.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Elzo from KALAMAZOO, MI
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pull washer out from wall. Remove front panel (2 Philips head screws), swing bottom of panel out, remove panel. Tilt washer backwards, lean against wall to expose area under washer. Roll off old belts, roll on new belts. Move washer back upright, replace front panel, replace the philips screws, move washer back to original position.
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broken belt
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ray from Cool, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Layed the machine on it'sback and put the 2 belts on the pulleys,Very easy ,when you know to put the machine on it's backside!
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motor went out
15 of 39 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jeff from shepherd, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
simply removed old motor and replaced with new
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Washing machine was making a weird churning sound during the wash cycle and was slowly leaking water from bottom.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jimmy from FREEPORT, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain t
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he water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .
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Dryer would not run
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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james from york, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.
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The washing machine ran noisily
5 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Xuanbao from Norwalk, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove the power cord and water hoses. Lay the machine on the floor. Remove two belts (washing and pumping). Unlock the screw of pulley using a hex key. Remove the broken pulley from the motor. Place in the new pulley. Lock the screw of the pulley. Install two belts. Turn the machine vertically. Plug in water hoses and power cord. Leve
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l the machine.
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agitator did not move, all other functions OK
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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nicholas from white plains, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
Removed the bottom belts to inspect. Belt for tub was well beyond it's service life. Belt for pump was OK. ordered the pair and replaced. When the washer was started the agitator still did not move. With power off I grabbed the agitator and pulled upward a few times then twisted it from side to side a few times. No change. Then I did the
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same with it with powered up ( a bit dangerous ). The agitator then ran OK.
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now i know the problem, it was the transmission.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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stephen from E NORTHPORT, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
well i first put on 2 new belts because they were worn and smoking. the new belts did not fix the problem. you suggested putting in a new pulley. it went against my better judgement that the pulley was defective. well i put in the new pulley and now the real problem has surfaced. the transmission is not working. now i want to orde
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r a new tranny and low and behold it is no longer available. well why did you sell me a $99 pulley when that was not the next part to change after the belts were replaced. now i have a new pulley on a washer that is going to the recycle center as metal trash. well on my part i will reward maytag by buying a ge washer now. plus i will not count on using you as my parts supplier.
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Not agitating ; top shaft seizing up
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JAMES from Hickory, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed tubs per prescribed videos. Removed transmission per video. Disassembled transmission per video. Used heat and penetrating oil to free top shaft. Lubricated top shaft and bushings with grease and reinstalled. Reassembled washer with replacement parts from partselect. Problem solved. My wife loves this washer. It lasted 30 years b
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efore I had issues, many of the internals looked brand new. They dont make' m like this anymore. With the self- help videos, and OEM parts from partselect, I'll get another 30, Thank you so much.
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All water into tub leaked from bottom of machine
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Martinsville, IN
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each f
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ront corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.
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slow leak at bottom of unit.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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alex from ogden, UT
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to
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help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck
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washing machine very noisy took belt off pump and it was normal.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from Bayside, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I tipped the washer up on 2by4 blocks used 1/4 inch rachet with 5/16 socket two remove 3 screws and the belt from underneath. Took clamps off hoses yahoo saved l00 bucks!
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Water leaked when the washer tub filled.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Wauwatosa, WI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed two screws near the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom away from the machine. Inside, I removed two cap screws, one under each front corner of the top panel. The top panel is hinged at the rear. I lifted the top panel from the front, rotated it to the rear and leaned it against the wall behind
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the machine. It was not necessary to disconnect any wiring. The "U" shaped water injector hose connects to the washer water source with a hose clamp and has a grommet-like end that fits in a round hole in the top of the tub. The hose had cracked and was leaking where it connected to the tub. The new injector hose was a direct replacement and was easy to install.
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