99937CG Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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Gas Flame Would Drop Out
49 of 66 people
found this instruction helpful.
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FRED from BRIELLE, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr
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Dryer would not heat up.
26 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from Bonners Ferry, ID
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the f
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ront open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++
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Dyer would not heat, flame would shut off within 10 seconds
24 of 29 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Christy from Riley, MI
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.
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Heat Would Not Come On
20 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lynn from Novi, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.
After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lo ... Read more t of time and money if I had read that earlier.
After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lo ... Read more t of time and money if I had read that earlier.
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No Heat
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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NICHOLAS from PARMA, OH
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (i
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t should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.
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No heat
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Philip from La Palma, CA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!
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the glow ignitor would not cycle on
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Georgio from Oradell, NJ
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the g
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low plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.
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no heat was being produced
9 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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reinaldo from guttenberg, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website
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Dryer got hot then heat would shut off
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from Fernley, NV
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and r
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everse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.
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No heat...
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Long Beach, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.
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No heat in dryer. Gas would not come on.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Lilburn, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced the flame sensor and the igniter. Probably didn’t need the igniter but put in anyway. Saved old igniter for a later time just in case it burns out.
Other Parts Used:
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no ignition, igniter not glowing, electricity good
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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gary from MANASQUAN, NJ
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver
easy even for an old man. Simply removed igniter bracket inside access door on the front and installed new part. Flex drive nut driver and 1/4" socket was all that was needed. Saved me a lot of money and time without the 25 year old dryer.
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would not heat
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Arthur from VALLEJO, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.
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Dryer would not heat.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Jon from WILLIAMSBURG, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling
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with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.
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would ignite but not run for more than 10 min.
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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brian from butte, MT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it
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turned on and ran replaced cover and done.
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