99528 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed the 2 screws that hold the element in place. Pulled the element forward about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Plugged the wire clips onto the new element and pushed the element back into place. Put the 2 screws back into place. This was a very easy repair.

removed two screws installed new one replaced the screws. The service I received couldn't have been better. They did exactly what they said they would. I wouldn't hesitate to use them again or recommend them.

REMOVE BACK OF RANGE, REMOVE BURNER KNOB. REMOVE SWITCH CONTROL REMOVE WIRES. REPLACE WIRES ON NEW SWITCH. INSERTED ALL WIRES REPLACE NEW SWITCH RE REPLACE ALL SCREWS. CHECK SWITCH. TURN BRAKER BACK ON. CHECK SWITCH FUNCTION. ALL IS FINE. PUT BACK ON RANGE SCREW IT IN PLACE. MOVE RANGE BACK IN IT POSITION.

My husband is an over-the-road driver, so I have to do all of the repairs myself. I went to the breaker box and turned off the power to the range. Then I removed 2 screws, pulled the element out about 3", and disconnected the wires. I then connected the wires to the new element, pushed it back in place, and replaced the screws. We had Parmesan Chicken for dinner and my children were thrilled!

removed 2 screws . pulled out the 2 wires and disconect them. took out the element. Put the new element in and hooked the wires up. placed the metal bracket to the back and put in the 2 screw and turned it on and it worked like new.
Brenda

unscrewed two screws put in new element replaced two screws done, recieved the element within days of order,it was the right part,couldn't have been happier with the service from parts select thank you.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires fom the old element .. connected them to the new element ... put the screws back ...and tested. problem solved

I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.

Turned off power to range. Took back panel off to reveal all controls. Pulled off knob of bad control. Removed 2 screws from the front of the control. Pulled off wiring from back of old control. Took new control reversed procedure. Reinstalled back panel turned power on and tested new control. Total time about 20 minutes

i just unpluged the old burner and slideed the new burners in place and they work great now like a new range

Turned off breaker, pulled stove from wall, took off knob, unscrewed and pull off backing from stove, unscrewed heat control part, unplugged wires, plugged into new part, installed part, replaced stove backing, replaced knob, pushed stove back in place and turned on breaker. It worked fine.

Unplug from outlet and top remove back section of range and unplug wiring from switch, remove knob and unscrew two screws and remove old switch. Install new switch reinstall screws and plug switch plugs into new switch (will only go on the correct way). reattach back and plug into outlet. All done and surface element works perfectly.

I removed the back panel, unplugged the wires, removed the 2 screws, replaced the element, plugged the wires back in and put the back panel back on. Now that I'm thinking about it, I guess I didn't even need to remove the back panel to replace the element.

Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connected them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.

First, I turned the breaker off to the oven, that's the most important step.
Next, I turned on the oven to make sure the oven was not energized.
I then took out two phillips screws that were holding the baking element in place.
Next I pulled the element out slowly to expose the wires that connected to the element.
I removed the connecters, took out the damaged element, replaced it with the new element.
Last, I screwed the two phillips screws back in, and saved a $65.00 service call.