9475XRB Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions
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Oven temperature lower then setpoint.
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Massapequa, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove
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and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.
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oven temperature not reaching setting/temp. up and down
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ellen from Schenectady, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.
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The F3 error code displayed and beeped during use of the oven and oven shut down.
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Debra from Colts Neck, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who
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added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.
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F3 code, oven wouldn't heat.
8 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Shaun from Kimball, NE
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by re
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moving the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!
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Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Ashland, OR
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull
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the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
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Oven would not heat consistently
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leland from Orting, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of
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the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Faulty bulb receptacle
10 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from Lynchburg, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
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Variable oven heat and Ignitor. problems
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Floyd from Kenai, AK
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor.
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Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !
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oven would not turn on flame
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Secaucus, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment.
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Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
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The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured wi
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th the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
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Oven would not maintain temperature
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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KATHY from PLEASANT GAP, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is l
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ike new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.
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Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Harlen from Spring Creek, NV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in
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each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.
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Just unscred the 2 screw on the Thermometer
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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WILLIAM J from JERSEY CITY, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and unscrew the 2 screws on the thermometer inside the stove and unplugged the white plastic in the back of the stove and I had to put the new extra piece that came with the sensor kit as it was needed because the socket were different.
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oven would not come to set heat
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ralph from Portsmouth, NH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
slide out stove remove rear cover (6 screws) to access sensor plug . remove two screws from inside oven area and remove part,replace in reverse order.
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