911954 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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The electric burner on the stove top would no longer heat up, when we removed it we noticed that the element was completely burned. I mean fryed!
14 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Monica from Point Blank, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the
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wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!
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The inside glass part of the door cracked
16 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gail from Springfield, VT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
When we received the part (it would have been nice to get instructions, but we figured it out anyways). Took four screws out of the door. Took some nuts off the door. Spread the door, took out the old (a little tricky) and slid in the new. Replaced the nuts and then the screws and it was done.
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Flat surface stovetop element was burned out
16 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leslie from Meridian, MS
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Removed brackets holding the cooktop in place.
2. Removed the cooktop.
3. Removed the screws holding the housing for the elements.
4. Removed bad element.
5 Connected new element.
6. Reassemble
2. Removed the cooktop.
3. Removed the screws holding the housing for the elements.
4. Removed bad element.
5 Connected new element.
6. Reassemble
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oven shut down code F3
17 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Jupiter, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two fron
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t supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!
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oven would not cook over 325 degrees and sometimes would burn your food.
15 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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phil from forney, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.
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oven would not come up to temperature
14 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Clarence from Norwich, NY
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed sensor from back wall of oven by removing 2 screws from flange. I could not pull the wire-nut connections out through the small hole and thought I would have to pull the whole oven out of the wall to acess the connections from the back so instead I clipped the wires close to the old sensor and connected the new sensor with the sma
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ll wire nuts provided, then enlarged the hole in the oven wall, being careful not to pinch the wires then pushed the wire nuts and extra wire back through the hole and put the screws back in the flange.
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Simply replaced the drip pans. Came to realize that I had the skill set.
17 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from HARRISVILLE, NH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
First dressed out with my hard hat, work gloves, dust mask then locked all the doors to prevent intruders from disturbing my concentration. During the installation took video for you tube broadcast and then invited friends and neighbors to witness the accomplishment! Made a sloppy soup to see how the drip pans worked. A+. Received quite
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a few back pats and atta boys. Most challenging aspect to this endeavor was unwrapping the packaging which was well done thank you. The whole experience left me refreshed and ready to take on the world! Thanks for asking!
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Lower Heating Element Out
12 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Clarksville, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) discovering a burnt spot in the element sent me searching for a new one. I couldn't find any locally, so I continued my search to the internet. This is when I came in contact with PartsSelect.com .
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They made identifing the part and ordering so easy it was unbelievable. Super fast deliverey astounded me as well. The installation of the new element was reverse of the old. All of the dimensions and info for the part were right there on this site. Thanks
They made identifing the part and ordering so easy it was unbelievable. Super fast deliverey astounded me as well. The installation of the new element was reverse of the old. All of the dimensions and info for the part were right there on this site. Thanks
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Burner not heating
12 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jeffrey from geneva, FL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Originally the burner had a hole burnt through it, which resulted in a hole being burnt through the bottom of a pan. I replaced the burner and it would not heat up. I removed the top control panel, after securing power to the stove outlet, turned the power back on checked both sides of the swith with a meter (with the switch on) and had
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no power on one side. I went to two stores that did not have the switch in stock and ended up ordering from this site at about half the price! It arrived a couple of days later. I marked the wire colors on the old switch, took off the knob, removed two phillips head screws, pulled out the old switch and installed the new one and I was back in business. The hardest part was getting the sheet metal / heat gaurd positioned right upon re-assembly. To remove the panel there are two screws in the rear (nut driver) and a screw on either side of the front under each corner that require a torx driver to remove.
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Actual temperature in oven was not consistent with the temperature setting
11 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Martha from WILMINGTON, OH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through th
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e opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.
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Oven was not reaching or maintaining temperature.
14 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from Madrid, IA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.
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Element burned into two pieces
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Philip W. from White House, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Threw the breakers off for the range. Removed the 2 screws on element connection end. Pulled element out 3 to 4 inches being careful not to scrape insulation on 220 wires. Had wife hold element from moving as I wiggled off the pair of wires from the element connectors. Next made sure wires were clipped in wooden sprung closepin to pre
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vent slippage back into the rear of the hole in the oven. Next removed the screw holding the thermo lead being carefull not to kink or twist it. Removed the final 2 screws from the front hangers and removed the old unit from the cavity.
Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.
Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.
Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.
Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.
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Oven not heating
14 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Stuart, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.
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Oven would not preheat - took over 1 hr to get to 350 degrees
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from Mt Juliet, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Turned the range/oven off at the breaker box. Pulled all the racks out. Unscrewed two screws holding lower heating element in. Pulled the heating element out to expose connections. Unhooked connections, plugged in new element. Replaced the screws. Turned breaker back one. Pretty simple!
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rear supports were broken
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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TED from herndon, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.
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