911944 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
10 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Frank from Glen Cove, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
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Bottom element burnt out
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Curtis from Oxon Hill, MD
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
remove two screws slide out. slide new one in. put two screws back. done.
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bake element
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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margaret from hastings, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
took 2 screws out of the element, then too the back off pluged in the element replaced two screws done
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my lower oven heater went out
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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lorita from bend, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
i was really pleased getting the order from partselect. i had torn my oven appart and knew i needed just this one part i came home and ordered it from parts select and actually got the part the next day.... very nice.... so pleased
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from Bolton, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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8" element shorted out
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Highlands, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replac ... Read more ed wired new on with the two screws.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replac ... Read more ed wired new on with the two screws.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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Front right burner would obtain the right heat setting.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John H. from JACKSONVILLE, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Went to You Tube, found the appropriate segment. "Wa La" the problem was solved. Burner is working the way it is supposed to.
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When the burner was turned on it would be on high for any setting. In fact, the burner would be warm to touch even when the switch was in the off position.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from CEDARVILLE, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new
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burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from DOVER, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to
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access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Red Light On
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Red Light Off
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Broiler shorted out looked like a 4th of july sparkler.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Warren from Killeen, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Ordered on Tues got part on Thurs used a nut driver removed 2 screws holding element in top of oven,then removed the 3 screws holding the element and thermostat to rear of oven pull about 3 inches of slack, removed the blade plugs from element placed them on the new element and assembled it. Took abou 30Min. Easier if you remove the oven
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door!
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8 inch burner would not work on lower settings
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melvin J. from Waldport, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. Shut off power at breaker.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7 ... Read more . unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7 ... Read more . unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kyle from AURORA, CO
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from
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the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
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Shorted the control panel changing bulb without shutting off power dumbass
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from BELLINGHAM, MA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala
Other Parts Used:
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