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911937 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911937
1 - 15 of 919

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Bake element cracked on its own
627 of 638 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Cordova, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Flipped the breaker. Removed shelf, Find the right size nut socket, unscrew the two screws, pull the element out a little bit, disconnect the wires (on pretty tight), pull out element, clean out any mess in the oven, compare element with new one to make sure its the same size and such, connect wires to new element, replace screws, fl ip breaker back, turn on for a few minutes to make sure it works. Piece of cake.
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Oven took 30 minutes to get to 380 degrees-no hotter
388 of 392 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandra from Hayward, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I searched this site and read about the repairs - which made me feel like my husband could do it with ease. Then he removed two screws inside the oven, removed the broken element (didn't know it was broken til removed) and replaced the new one - just like that! The real key was being able to read how it was for other people who ha d already done it. That's the only reason I'm submitting my storey. Thanks
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Bake Element burned out, bunt like a sparkler.
353 of 377 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brad from Bedford, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Ordered the part on Friday, got it on Saturday, very impressive. Be sure to unplug the range or disconnect the power at the breaker box before any repairs are started.

The lower (Bake) element is held in by 2 screws. Remove them and gently pull out the element to remove the power wires connected to the element. These wires are very short and there is not much room in which to work. After having removed the wire connectors one slipped from my fingers and went back in the small opening in the back of the oven where the element is inserted. It took some time to fish out the wire. Not wanting to slide out the range I used some surgical forcepts I happen to have grab the wire ( handy to clip wires or compontents in place for some delicate repairs). Its all blind and the opening is very small plus the insulation must be pushed back to gain access. Anyway I managed to grab the wire, attached both wires to the element, replaced the plate and screws holding the element in place, all finished. Worked great. Other ranges I have owned provided a socket to plug in the element, I guess the bottom line gets in the way of quality.. Being 60 years old the worst part of this job is the getting down on my knees to do the work and getting back up again.
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Bake element burned out
202 of 273 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Laura from N. Little Rock, AR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. Then I removed the two screws from the old element, pulled the old element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires from the element and installed the new one.
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The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
113 of 115 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black elec trical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
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Oven would go in to a F2 Error
148 of 226 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from stamford, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
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The switches failed on both front burners.
97 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marc from Columbia, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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lower bake element broken
107 of 169 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Nye, MT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed 2 screws that hold element and pulled old element out about 2 inches to disconnect the wires from the old element. Connected the new element and remounted to rear oven wall. Very simple and saved a visit from the appliance repairman.
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Daughter dropped dish on element......broke it!
73 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Danny from Trinity, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
the repeated the process to complete the installation.
Relly easy.
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Bake Element fell apart
76 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Citrus Springs, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Cut the Power! pull out stove remove the 4 screws in the back, disconnect the two wires from the element.Open oven door, remove racks and remove 2 screws holding the element in place. Replace element and the 2 retaining screws, replace racks.On the back of the oven connect the two wires and replace cover. Slide back in place and turn on the power. Done =)
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Front burner would not heat up
78 of 111 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Olathe, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Pull out range and unplug from socket.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
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Bake element burnt in half
92 of 154 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Betty from Athelstane, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Removed nut, washer and screw, pulled out electric burner about three inches, disconnected electric terminals and removed damaged element. Inserted new element into oven, connected electric terminals, pushed electric prongs back in, screwed element to back wall of oven....DONE Easy as 123
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Broiler element failed
66 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • paul from west grove, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connect ion..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..
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Bake Element burned up and broke into pieces
59 of 66 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lisa from San Jose, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
First, we turned off the electricity for the whole house, since we didn't want to pull the unit away from the wall and possibly damage our new floors. We then used a socket wrench to remove the 2 nuts holding in the broken element. After that, we pulled out the old element, and this is where the difficulty came into play. The wires for the element stayed inside the back of the oven, and nothing we did could make them come out. We tried for a long time to get the wires to come back out into the oven, but our fingers were not long enough, and nothing we inserted into the space helped the situation.

Since we had turned the electricity off and still were reluctant to move the oven ourselves, we actually decided to call in a repair person (cost: $90). What he did, though was really simple:

He pulled the oven out from the wall. Used a screwdriver to open the back panel of the oven and was able to pull out the wires. Then, he inserted the new element, hooked it up to the wires, and closed back up the back panel. Then, he moved the oven back into place.

The repair person did this in all of 5 minutes, so if my husband and I had thought about the back panel, we would have easily done it ourselves.
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Inner glass window of oven cracked
57 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Sharon, MA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Removed the oven door -- this is a little tricky -- you need to lift to small metal covers on the hinges, then pull the door up and out from the broil (half open position). Replace the door the same way. It is important to insert the hinges with the door in the "broil" position, and after verifying that the door is aligned and closes normally -- then lift hinge covers to lock in place.

2. After door is removed the glass assembly can be removed and replaced by unscrewing two long (2-3 inch long) screws at the top. And three hex head screws at the bottom of the door. Note -- there is no need to removed the six screws (3 either side) on th ebottom of the door -- because these only hold the hinges to the door. The other 5 screws that you do need to remove actually hold the two halves of the door together.

3. Replace glass assembly and reassemble.

It is not so hard but you need "star" screwdrivers for the long screws... (not philips -- but 6-pointed stars), and a socket wrench is useful for the bottom 3 hex head screws...

If I were to do again it would only take me 15 minutes.... but I messed up by removing the hinges unnecessarily so it took me an hour.
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All Instructions for the 911937
1 - 15 of 919