911936 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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Oven Overheating upto 200 degrees!!
20 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lee from Greenfield, IN
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair,
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don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.
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Oven won't get hot, would preheat only -element don't even get hot- only the brioil element got hot.
21 of 28 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tammy from Emmitsburg, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Repair: unscrewed the back panel- 2 screw and the sensor and bake element from the inside had 2 screws each. Just stuck them through their old hole from inside to the outside, pushed plug back together. Then screwed back into place, screwed back plate back on. Plugged stove in, turned on the oven and within 2 seconds the bake element was
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blood red and temp. was up to 350 in less then 10 min. Come to find out only needed the oven sensor -$10.00part but I already ordered the bake element so I went a head and replaced it - cost $50.00. Have a great oven again for less then $70.00repair.
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Large burner very slow heating
19 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Drusilla from Bloomfield, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Downdraft stove is over 20 years old, but everything else works fine and it would be a real pain to replace it.
This quick-heat back burner is part of a two burner plug- in unit which takes up half of the top of the stove.
I removed the top from the rest of the unit easily removing five screws. Because of the age an ... Read more d long use it was tough getting the old nut off which holds on the disc, but with the help of some spray lubricant it came off. The old wire ends were also rusted, and to get them off I bent up the old holder, which was going to be discarded anyhow. It was a simple matter to plug in the new unit, tighten the nut, clean up the lubricant with a paper towel, and reassemble the unit, which I cleaned inside since it was dusty. After plugging in the unit I turned on the burner...it works like new and has saved me a very costly replacement. I like it so much that even though the front element works perfectly I am considering buying that disc too just so they will match. Finding your company was absolutely great, and I would recommend you to anyone looking for parts. I still have the manual for this stove so I would feel confident in replacing pretty much any part needed....not bad for a 72 year old woman, (My Dad taught me to do my own work and I am a passable carpenter and plumber; a little more wary when it's something electrical !
This quick-heat back burner is part of a two burner plug- in unit which takes up half of the top of the stove.
I removed the top from the rest of the unit easily removing five screws. Because of the age an ... Read more d long use it was tough getting the old nut off which holds on the disc, but with the help of some spray lubricant it came off. The old wire ends were also rusted, and to get them off I bent up the old holder, which was going to be discarded anyhow. It was a simple matter to plug in the new unit, tighten the nut, clean up the lubricant with a paper towel, and reassemble the unit, which I cleaned inside since it was dusty. After plugging in the unit I turned on the burner...it works like new and has saved me a very costly replacement. I like it so much that even though the front element works perfectly I am considering buying that disc too just so they will match. Finding your company was absolutely great, and I would recommend you to anyone looking for parts. I still have the manual for this stove so I would feel confident in replacing pretty much any part needed....not bad for a 72 year old woman, (My Dad taught me to do my own work and I am a passable carpenter and plumber; a little more wary when it's something electrical !
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Burnt out element
17 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ed from Lee, NH
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Turn off circuit breaker.
Lockout (LOTO) circuit breaker.
Pull stove away from wall to access the rear of range.
Remove seven (7) screws from rear cover with nutdriver / screwdriver.
Carefully, disconnect stake-on terminals (wires) from element (may need to use needle nose pliers).
Open oven, remove racks.
R ... Read more emove two (2) screws holding element in place with nutdriver.
Remove old broken element.
Insert new element. Fasten with screws previously removed. Close oven door. Go to rear of unit.
Reconnect wires to element. Make sure insulation seals around the element.
Inspect for any other damage; repair as may be required.
Replace cover panel and fasten with the seven screws previously removed.
Does not hurt to vacuum and clean the area stove, too.
Push stove back into position.
Remove LOTO and turn on circuit breaker (power)
Turn oven on to highest temp to bake off any contaminates on element. Turn OFF. Let cool. Replace racks a/r. Close oven door.
Invite the pretty girl next door to come over to bake something.... OK, this part is optional.
Lockout (LOTO) circuit breaker.
Pull stove away from wall to access the rear of range.
Remove seven (7) screws from rear cover with nutdriver / screwdriver.
Carefully, disconnect stake-on terminals (wires) from element (may need to use needle nose pliers).
Open oven, remove racks.
R ... Read more emove two (2) screws holding element in place with nutdriver.
Remove old broken element.
Insert new element. Fasten with screws previously removed. Close oven door. Go to rear of unit.
Reconnect wires to element. Make sure insulation seals around the element.
Inspect for any other damage; repair as may be required.
Replace cover panel and fasten with the seven screws previously removed.
Does not hurt to vacuum and clean the area stove, too.
Push stove back into position.
Remove LOTO and turn on circuit breaker (power)
Turn oven on to highest temp to bake off any contaminates on element. Turn OFF. Let cool. Replace racks a/r. Close oven door.
Invite the pretty girl next door to come over to bake something.... OK, this part is optional.
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Broiler Unit was burnt out
17 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brenda from LaFollette, TN
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Wrench set
First I had to remove the oven ceiling screws bracing the broiler element. Second I removed the screws holding the connectors at the back of the oven before I could disconnect the two wires ( which were awkward for me to get to because I am 5'2" but was able to reach without removing the oven door).
I reconnected the two c ... Read more onnectors and screwed the brace into the back of the oven. Then replaced the screws into the ceiling of the oven to hold the unit in place.
I was very pleased to have been able to do this project on my own and the broiler is working fine.
I reconnected the two c ... Read more onnectors and screwed the brace into the back of the oven. Then replaced the screws into the ceiling of the oven to hold the unit in place.
I was very pleased to have been able to do this project on my own and the broiler is working fine.
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oven would not heat; temperature sensor failed; needed replacement
18 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from MARIETTA, GA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece
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of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!
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Oven door gasket needed replacement
21 of 32 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JUDITH from DANVILLE, NH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Replacement was extremely easy. The new part fit perfectly and installed very easily without tools. Also, I received the part within a few days
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defective temp. sensor
20 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Armand from COVENTRY, CT
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel
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Oven door hinge rollers broke, hard to open door
16 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from Framingham, MA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Before removing screws, I reached in and felt for where the upper end of the spring attached to the hinge. There are three holes in the end of the hinge arm, so I wanted to be sure of which hole to use. (The holes are very close together, so if the spring falls out before you determine which hole it was in, it probably won't matter so l
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ong as you are sure to use the same hole on both new hinges.) I then removed three Phillips screws per hinge. Once the hinge was loose, I could wiggle it around and release enough of the spring tension to slip the top end of the spring out of the hole on the hinge arm. Then I pulled out the old hinge and inserted the new one and replaced the three screws. Without the tension, the lower end of the spring fell out of the little hole in the oven bottom where it normally attaches. Our gas oven has a broiler rather than a storage drawer, so it was a little difficult to get the lower tip of the spring back into that hole. It actually ended up being easier to get the lower tip of the spring back into that hole first, before trying to reattach it to the hinge arm. Once I got the lower end into that hole, I pulled up on the spring and maintained upward pressure on the spring while I fiddled around to get the upper end into the hinge arm hole. Took about 20 minutes, door works perfectly now. Lots of sharp edges inside the oven, so had to be careful.
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Failed oven door hinge
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Spencerport, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pull oven door open about a couple of inches. Grab the door by the sides and pull up to remove from the hinges. Set it aside. Remove the storage drawer under the oven. This gives you access to the tension spring attached to the hinge. Detach it by hand. Using a phillips head, unscrew and remove the damaged hinge. Replace the new hinge. Re
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attach the spring. Replace the storage drawer. Replace the oven door. Done.
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When baking at temps > 400 the oven would beep with an error code F5 and shut off
16 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Cypress, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per
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the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.
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oven shut down code F3
17 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Jupiter, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two fron
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t supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!
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The electric burner on the stove top would no longer heat up, when we removed it we noticed that the element was completely burned. I mean fryed!
14 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Monica from Point Blank, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the
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wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!
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oven would not cook over 325 degrees and sometimes would burn your food.
15 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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phil from forney, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.
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Simply replaced the drip pans. Came to realize that I had the skill set.
17 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from HARRISVILLE, NH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
First dressed out with my hard hat, work gloves, dust mask then locked all the doors to prevent intruders from disturbing my concentration. During the installation took video for you tube broadcast and then invited friends and neighbors to witness the accomplishment! Made a sloppy soup to see how the drip pans worked. A+. Received quite
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a few back pats and atta boys. Most challenging aspect to this endeavor was unwrapping the packaging which was well done thank you. The whole experience left me refreshed and ready to take on the world! Thanks for asking!
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