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9119359 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 9119359
76 - 90 of 591

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Electric Burner Control Broken
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from VINELAND, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!
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no burnt wire
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernard from N CHARLESTON, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replace part an wires
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heating element clap broke off
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Hedgesville, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.
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Oven door hinge roller deteriorated, oven door hard to open.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Kernersville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open and slide door upward off of hinges. Removed bottom drawer to access hinge spring. Detached spring, noting proper hole in hinge for reinstallation. Removed three screws holding hinge and removed hinge. Compared new part to old...exact match. Inserted hinge, and reinstalled the three screws. Reattached spring in hinge hole. Sli d door back down onto hinges. Done in four minutes flat!
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Lower heating element cracked
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Dayton, OH
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Followed the video directions on your website - GREAT INFORMATION. Everything went very smoothly It took me longer to find my work light (after turning off the electric to the oven) out in the garage than it did to complete the repair!! SUPER PLEASED - WOULD NOT HESITATE TO RECOMMEND THIS COMPANY TO ANY DIY ADVENTURER!!
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The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sherman from OPELOUSAS, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
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Switch started arcing in the dial range of 2 to 8 in about a year.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from HONEA PATH, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.
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Switch was not turning off range indicator light
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from PORTLAND, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connecti ons. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
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previous owner self cleaned and left oven racks in the oven
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Judith from San Antonio, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
threw out the old ones and slide in the replacement ones from you.
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Replace the light bulb socket.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from SOUTHBRIDGE, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Alls well that ends well. General Electric changed the configuration of our Light bulb socket on our 1996 oven. It did not have a flange with two screws as the original. The new one, you will just connect it and twist it into place. It worked and we are very happy. Such wonderful people to deal with at this site. Our sincere thanks,
Richard and Shirley
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oven door jammed,could not open it
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Winchester, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Removed old hinges and installed new hinges.
Hardest part was determining that worn hinges were the cause of problem, then ordering replacements. GE website hinge on exploded view did not look like hinges I removed.Thanks to Google I got on to PartSelect.com website where excellent pictures of hinges and one-inch grid confirmed they sold exactly what I wanted for my 13-year old range, the model number of which was not even on the GE website.
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Cracked inner door glass
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CHRISTOPHER from Davenport, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the door by unclipping the hinges with a screwdriver - very easy. I laid the door on the kitchen island unit on the polystryrene packaging. I removed all of the star bolts. I need not have removed the star bolts around the door hinges as these hold the hinges to the inner frame. The cracked double glazed unit lifted out and was replaced very easily. We took the opportunity to clean all of the parts that don't usually get cleaned - hence the time taken. Reassembly and reattaching the door was very easy. We didn't rush and were very careful in laying the door on a good flat surface. The oven is now good as new. Well done PartSelect for stocking such an old part - $125 to keep the range working perfectly.
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Burned out broiler element.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from YORK, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled the stove out from between the cabinets, used a blade screwdriver to pop the oven door retainers down and lifted the oven door out, removed the racks. used a 1/4'' nut driver to remove the 5 screws holding the broiler in place. From the time I unplugged the stove from the outlet until I plugged the stove back in was 15 min. I would suggest wearing gloves because the metal frame around the burner element has sharp edges.
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The oven does not keep adequate temperature.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from GILLETTE, WY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unp lug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.
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burner not work
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • SILVIA from Midlothian, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la e stufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.
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All Instructions for the 9119359
76 - 90 of 591