9119355 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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The handle fell off and I broke the outer glass taking it apart.
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dennis from Modesto, CA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The repair was easy, I took out the 4 screws and removed the outer shell, placed the glass in the bottom slot. lined up and started the handle screws, tighten them by hand gently. Then laid the outer over the inner door and re-inserted the 4 screws. Made sure it was all tight and slipped the door back over the hinge. Took about 10 min.
... Read more />Wish I was more careful tightening the handle the first time, would have saved myself $55. Don't over tighten the handle!
Kudos to PartSelect, the part was a snap to find and order, easiest online website ever! It was here the next day even though I shipped it ground.
Thanks for making my big blunder easy to fix.
... Read more />Wish I was more careful tightening the handle the first time, would have saved myself $55. Don't over tighten the handle!
Kudos to PartSelect, the part was a snap to find and order, easiest online website ever! It was here the next day even though I shipped it ground.
Thanks for making my big blunder easy to fix.
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Single Heating Element Support Clip was needed to hold up the heating element in the oven. Old single heating element support clip broke and came out of the hole.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marion from METHUEN, MA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D
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old enc caps cracked; one broken off the oven door
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Randy from Olympia, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven door from oven. Removed the inner oven door portion from the outer part to gain access to inner screws attaching end caps to front of stove door. Removed those screws and the old end caps & broken off pieces. Pressed oven door handle bar into new end caps. Reattached oven door handle assembly to front of oven door. Reinstalle
... Read more
d inner oven door which included long screws that also went into the new end caps. Reinstalled oven door on oven. Job was easy. Price was certainly right for the end caps at $10.01/each.
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Oven light did not work
9 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Howard from Rio Vista, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.
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Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from CUMMING, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
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The oven door handle snapped off one day, no extra force was applied to it, it just snapped off!
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carla from Cotuit, MA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First I unscrewed the end of the oven door and realized I could replaced the parts easily that hold the handle on the door. Then I held the sharp, broken plastic ends with a towel and used my drill with a thingy that fits on a small hex nut and unscrewed the broken handle parts and removed them. All I had to do after that is screw on t
... Read more
he new handle holders with the handle bar fit snuggly between them, presto, new handle bar installed. Great service from partselect. com. Would use them again.!
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Door handle snapped
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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MICHAEL from CORINTH, TX
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I read the previous repair stories and figured it couldn't be that tough. Mine actually had a slight deviation and I'm sure based on model...
To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing hand ... Read more les were held in place by a single hex head screw each.
Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off.
This is where things had a slight deviation.
The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-)
My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven.
I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned.
Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.
To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing hand ... Read more les were held in place by a single hex head screw each.
Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off.
This is where things had a slight deviation.
The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-)
My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven.
I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned.
Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.
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The old single heating element support clips came loose over time.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from SALISBURY, CT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've wit
... Read more
hstood the modification.
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wire connection to socket was bad
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Gansevoort, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.
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No istructions included
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from Selma, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Although the parts did fit, some modification was needed to remove the excess tabs as it appears these parts were for multiple applications. However the end result was a good fit and reapirs were successful.
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Element control stopped working
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Covesville, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the stove. I then removed the control panel using a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws (phillips head) holding the element in. Five wires had to be disconnected from the old element and placed on the new one. As I removed each wire from the burned out element, I placed it in the same place on the n
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ew one. I then replacedd the element on the stove and put the control panel back in placed. I plugged the stove into the wall outlet and tested the element control. This whole procedure took no longer than about fifteen minutes.
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heating element clap broke off
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Hedgesville, WV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.
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Large burner didn't work
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mell from San Antonio, TX
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Switching out the part was reasonably easy. The hard part twas that over 15 years some of the other parts have dried out. The oven indicator light came loose and the tabs on the clock were broken. With the help of some glue & some Z bracket it is back together minus the oven indicator light. Not perfect but cheaper than buying a new one.
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my door handle broke off.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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yvonne from CHESTERFIELD, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
My son repaired it. I ordered the parts thinking I could repair it but it was way beyond my ability.
Other Parts Used:
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F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rachele from OCEANSIDE, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip discon
... Read more
nected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
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