911922 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch ... Read more ) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Removed the three screws from the top and bottom of the oven door. Removed the outside door cover from the inside door panel. This gave me access to the six screws that hold the two sections of the inside panel together. The glass of the inside oven window was manufactured without the installation of retainers to keep the window from m ... Read more oving. I installed the four retainers that I purchased. Reassembled the door. The glass now stays in place. Since there were no retainers to begin with I had to figure out how they were to be installed to prevent the glass from moving around.

I read the "easy to repair" story after I ordered my part and I felt like I coud do this on my own. (Female not much experience in repairs) I shut off circuit breaker...proceeded to take out element...could not get it to easiler come off...so I made the mistake of cutting the wire because it looked like that's what I needed to do. WORD TO ... Read more THE WISE...there are clamps that actually pull off the element..just need to pull a little. So my "easy" project was made more difficult because I didn't know this up front. Otherwise it would have been a breeze. I had to go to the hardware store and but new clamps and attach to the cut wire. Good news is my oven is now working and Parts.com was fast, cheaper than the GE parts place and great service.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and re ... Read more move the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

pulled stove out from wall about a foot ans disconnected the electricity cord. removed the 2 screws holding the element in place and pulled it out a bout 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. attached the new element & pushed it in place and tighrened the 2 screws. hooked up the electric power, moved stove back in place & it was done ... Read more !

As others have described, the removal of the old bake element is easy, just undo screws in the mount holding it to the inside wall of oven and pull out, then disconnect wires.

The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the ma ... Read more jority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.

Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.

I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.

Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.

Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.

A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.

This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires we ... Read more re a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!

The hardest part of repair was moving the oven from the cabnets to unplug and gain access to rear of oven. Remove rear cover panel unplug two spade connectors attached to the heating element. Open oven door and remove the two screws holding the heating element to back of oven. Pull heating element out. Then slide the new element in an ... Read more d assemble in reverse order.

the only challenging thing realizing that the screws in the back weren't for a screw driver, they were for a very small wrench. Since I didn't have such a tool, I just used vice grips. It all went well though. The oven currently heats to 400 degrees in 7.5 min. I am quite happy.

Removed the two screws and pulled out the bake element. Then plugged in the new element and replaced the screw. Easy

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters do ... Read more n't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

first i unplugged the stove to disconnect all power. next itried using pliers to unscrew the screws and was having a hard time so hubby got the adjustable wrench and it was much easier. after taking out the two screws, i pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the element from the two wires that hold it in place. then i ... Read more snapped the new element in place just as the old one was and reattached the element to the stove using the two screws. after assuring that element was secure, i turned my oven on to 300 degrees and voila!!! we're cookin again!!!

I turned the power off.Pushed on the terminals,and used a nut driver to secure the element to the oven back wall.Great service.I recieved the part in 24 hours with reg. shipping at a great price,Unbelieveable!!!

Very well, I made a mistake with the model #. So I had to return and reorder .

I really like my repairman, but prefer to do it myself. PartSelect rocks...reasonable prices, really fast shipping AND online repair videos keep me coming back. The repair was exactly as the video described, but one of the wires came loose as I was pulling the element through. I thought I'd have to tear the stove apart to get to it, but ... Read more luckily, all of the wiring is contained in a raceway that runs along the back of the stove. After removing it to expose the wires, I would recommend doing so instead of trying to pull the wires through as the video shows. In doing so, the terminal connections are readily accessible and it's much easier to remove and install the bake element without having to worry about feeding the wires through at the same time and running the risk of damaging them. Overall, a very simple, quick repair that saved me a $50-75 service call.