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911920 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911920
76 - 90 of 518

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kyle from AURORA, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
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Broiler shorted out looked like a 4th of july sparkler.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Warren from Killeen, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Ordered on Tues got part on Thurs used a nut driver removed 2 screws holding element in top of oven,then removed the 3 screws holding the element and thermostat to rear of oven pull about 3 inches of slack, removed the blade plugs from element placed them on the new element and assembled it. Took abou 30Min. Easier if you remove the oven door!
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Shorted the control panel changing bulb without shutting off power dumbass
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from BELLINGHAM, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala
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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from plainfield, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Yuma, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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temp sensor in oven was failing.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chad from FRANKLIN, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
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Replace Surface Burner Switch
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from CHANNELVIEW, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug stove.
Remove rear panel of stove with a nut driver or socket. Remove knob from switch and use small screwdriver to remove screws on front panel switch. Remove and replace each wire contact one at a time to ensure correct wiring configuration. Replace screws on front panel to secure switch. Plug stove in and check that it work s properly. Replace rear panel and move stove back in place.
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The broil element was burned through
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Reza from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench set
First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.

Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finis hing with plugging the range.
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F2 Error on Display
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from FORNEY, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back pa nel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.
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The glass cover on oven door had been destroyed.
9 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • LILLIE from SENECA, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench set
Loosened screw on upper left on the inside of the door,this enabled me to see exactly where to place the glass front, then slid the glass behind the door handle, then inserted into the bottom slot, making sure that the glass was secure. Did all of this after applying the insulation pad. Door looked like new!!!
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Oven Temp. went too high and the door locked. Burnt the food
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nathan from BILLINGS, MT
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.
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The old single heating element support clips came loose over time.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from SALISBURY, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've wit hstood the modification.
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All Instructions for the 911920
76 - 90 of 518