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911729 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911729
121 - 135 of 316

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Broken Hinge
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from Fords, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Easy Repair. Remove the storage draw under the oven. It lifts out. Lift oven door off of hinges. Remove 3 screws & unhook the spring. Reverse the procedure with the new hinge. Good as new.
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Oven door only opened 1/4 of the way
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Beth from Emerald Drive, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
After reading the other DIY's directions, we explored how to remove oven door. When the part came in, my sister who was visiting, removed the oven door (30seconds), removed bottom drawer (30 seconds), noted where spring was attached, took off screws and spring, installed new hinge with roller, took a minute to decide if the new hinge cam e through the back or the front (front), she reattached the spring and screws. Put door back on and then struggles to put the drawer back into place. Total time less than 5 mintues, most time spent on returning bottom drawer to its home. Thanks part select for helping me not burn my self every time I try and get food out of the oven!!! I open the oven door all the way and am so delighted!!
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oven wont turn on but broiler does
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nick from south st. paul, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced the oven igniter
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defective spark module
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Reseda, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
used nut driver to remove old module and 10 minutes the cooktop was back in operation
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Just follow the enclosed instructions
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • HAROLD from Tucson, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Followed the instructions
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Change bulb
3 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Easy
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Oven would not light - no glow igniter
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Brethren, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed bottom of oven Removed bottom drawer. Removed two screws holding burner, disconnected both wires.Removed two screws holding igniter,installed new igniter reversing procedure.

Could not get at the screws holding the igniter to the buner, without removing the burner.
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oven igniter would not heat so gas valve would not open
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nicholas from Elkridge, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
removed the old part with socket set and replaced the part with a fresh one. turned on oven, igniter heated up and oven lit.
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Broken door hinge
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from Glenview, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The part arrived on timed and fit perfect. The repaired took 1/2 hour and everything works perfect. My wife thinks I am the best
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Oven would not light
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harold from Delran, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Replace igniter in oven. It was a simple repair and only required that I unplugged the power cord from the unit, remove the base and 2 screws holding the igniter.
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Oven Igniter had burnt out
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • AMANDA from Boston, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
Replacing the igniter was easy to do, that only took 15 min. The time was needed to take apart the bottom of the oven so I could get to the nuts on the igniter, and the time to put it back together again. I'm very inexperienced at this sort of thing so since I could do it I'd encourage anyone to give it a go, and anyone that knows what th ey're doing will do it much faster.
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Igniter doesn't glow
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JAMES from GARDEN GROVE, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
I'm still repairing. The igniter was replaced with new but it still doesn't glow. I'm waiting for a schematic that is being mailed to me from GE. In the meantime I have borrowed a test instrument to check that the system is hot when the BAKE button is pushed. The controls light up as expected but no glow. The BROIL igniter glows whe n activated, lighting the broiler. The new Ignite was packaged very well so it isn't suspect. I LEFT YOU FOR A FEW HOURS. I tested the electrical with a meter and got zero voltage. I removed the wire nuts and using two alligator clips I connected the meter to the bare wires coming from the oven wall. I then hit BAKE again and BINGO! Replaced the defective wire nut and now the igniter is happy as a clam. --- Thanks for your interest and for expediting the material.
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Bad sensor
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from CASPER, WY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
By myself
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Oven wouldn't light
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from Rensselaer, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the other instructions folks had left, and things went very well. I did unscrew the mount to lift the entire flame assembly out, which made getting at the screws for the igniter much easier. Once I had done that, I clipped the wires close to the old igniter, one at a time, then connected them to the wires on the new igniter. Th e part came with ceramic wire nuts for this, which I was glad for because I wasn't clear how best to connect wires in a heated environment. Put everything back together and it worked perfectly.
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Oven won't light & no gas flow
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Katy, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before perfor ming any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)
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All Instructions for the 911729
121 - 135 of 316