911721 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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2 hexhead screws on back side of igniter with no room to get to them.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Clayton from NEWBERRY, MI
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one
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screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.
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Oven Would Not Turn On.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Joan from Riverdale, NY
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Most trouble I had was removing the screws that were located under the bracket. I had to slip the oven door off first to give me more room. Very hard to get to these screws because of where they were located under the bracket. I had to twist and turn the old igniter to get to it. When finally removed, I replaced the old igniter with t
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he new one using my own screws. I twisted the wires together, and replaced the baffles, the oven floor, and then the door. The oven fired up wonderfully! Thank you for your prompt service for getting me the part quickly and correctly.
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Oven Igniter went out the night before Thanksgiving
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Sonya from Renton, WA
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Wrench (Adjustable)
First I took out the old Igniter and discovered the part I ordered did not come with any connectors, just bare wires. This is ok but I found myself searching the stores for the correct attatchments. It would be great if your web site gave the options to order these at the same time. This was my first repair of this kind so I had no idea w
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hat I was doing. I thought the part would arrive with what I needed to install it. The hardest part was getting the bolts off the under side of the Igniter. The space if very tight and at an angle that a regular took doesn't really fit. What took so long was taking the bolts off by hand. Im a single woman who likes to try to fix things first on my own. My 18 yr. old daughter was in there with me the whole time learning and finally it was her smaller fingers that were able to get the bolts into the new part. We only finger tightened the part because no tools would fit at the curved angle. I love your web site and the ease of finding the part I needed. Its the stove manufacture who made this project difficult by how they place the screws. I will use them for all my part needs in the future.
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Oven would not heat
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Seaford, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room
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to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.
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Broken Ignitor
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Matt from Ladera Ranch, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Socket set
My repair was easy. The hardest part was trying to get the 2 small screws off and on the igniter. You need small hands or a small, angled socket set. I did mine with the door of my oven still on and maybe that was why I couldn't reach the screws that well. If you can do the repair with the door off, I would say that would be easier.
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As soon as the new piece was screwed in, it worked on the first try.
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Igniter coil burned out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Chuck from Los Angeles, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
- removed the oven unit from the wall
- removed the aluminum backplate to expose the wiring
- Removed both glass wire nuts and disconnected the heating element\
- From the front, I removed both retainer screws and pulled the element wires through.
- In reverse order I reinsalled the new wires and screwed on the heating ... Read more element.
-I reattached the electrical wiring and rear pane.
- I re-installed the unit into the wall.
- removed the aluminum backplate to expose the wiring
- Removed both glass wire nuts and disconnected the heating element\
- From the front, I removed both retainer screws and pulled the element wires through.
- In reverse order I reinsalled the new wires and screwed on the heating ... Read more element.
-I reattached the electrical wiring and rear pane.
- I re-installed the unit into the wall.
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Gas oven would not light
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Dwight from Houston, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I was able to access the burner and igniter by removing the broiler drawer. The flame guard was removed with a nut driver and the old igniter with a phillips screwdriver.
The electrical wires had to be spliced into the old igniter wires as they did not come with the factory connectors. However sire nuts were supplied.
... Read more r />After replacement of the igniter with the new one .. it would glow and about a minute later the gas would come on. However the gas from the burner did not light. I had to adjust the bracket closer to the burner to correct the issue.
Note: The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. This means that it will continue to glow even after the burner lights durning oven operation.
The electrical wires had to be spliced into the old igniter wires as they did not come with the factory connectors. However sire nuts were supplied.
... Read more r />After replacement of the igniter with the new one .. it would glow and about a minute later the gas would come on. However the gas from the burner did not light. I had to adjust the bracket closer to the burner to correct the issue.
Note: The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. This means that it will continue to glow even after the burner lights durning oven operation.
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Oven did not light
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Houston, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver
I figured out the problem, ordered the part, and replaced it. Four hex head screws, two wire nuts, and two thum screws latter it was working.
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Over door would not open fully; light was always on
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Fareed from Randolph, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Slid off the oven door and loosened the hinge assembly. Removed the storage drawer to unhook the spring and then took off the old hinge assembly.
Inserted the spring into the new hinge assembly and then installed it - just tightened the screws. Hooked the spring into the lower point. Slid in the oven door and tested it so that ... Read more is opened/closed easily. Cleaned under the oven while the storage drawer was out.
We can now bake bread, pizza, etc. What a relief.
Inserted the spring into the new hinge assembly and then installed it - just tightened the screws. Hooked the spring into the lower point. Slid in the oven door and tested it so that ... Read more is opened/closed easily. Cleaned under the oven while the storage drawer was out.
We can now bake bread, pizza, etc. What a relief.
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Bake didn't work, broiler did
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bill from Harleysville, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplugged the oven. First i removed the 2 screws from the pan at the bottom of the oven and took the pan out. Next i took out the drawer underneath and took the screws out of the pans below to get to the ignitor. Unscrewed the ignitor and cut the wires below it to splice the new ignitor on. Spliced the two sets of wires and put the cerami
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c wire nuts on. Replaced the top and bottom pans and put the drawer back. plugged the oven back in and started the oven right up. Pretty easy.
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The oven igniter burned out.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Las Vegas, NV
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new
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igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!
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Broken roller on left hinge of oven door.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Phillip from Caledonia, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed the excellent removal and installation video by PartSelect. Also the diagram was excellent allowing me to purchase the correct hinge the first time. Fast shipping.
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Igniter would not glow and light oven.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from FALL CITY, WA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.
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Stove igniters not sparking
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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rick from NEWNAN, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The spark control module is located in the top section near the clock. Take off the back cover. Use needle nose pliers to disconnect the wires. The modules are marked with letters so connecting the new module is very easy. The range works great. My Kenmore is a 1985 model.
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Burned out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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John from GLENVIEW, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Go to utube videos for this are there
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