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911604 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911604
106 - 120 of 233

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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oven wouldn't go on.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Palmdale, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the bottom drawer from the oven, took my handy nut driver out and removed two screws from the round igniter. When it was loose from the oven I removed the two wire nuts conecting it to the power sourse, I reversed the process and it was working again. One thing did go wrong my wife made me clean the oven that wasn't part of my p lan :)
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oven would not get hot
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Cedarville, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed bottom tray of oven, removed ignighter, unplug two wires.
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broiler worked but oven didn't
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Pekin, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
We follow the advise of one of you other viewers. It was so easy. Our thanks for the info and the speeding delivery
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Bake glow coil will not come on (Glow)
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Cedar Grove, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed oven racks
Remove oven bottom
Remove 2 screws holding the glow coil onto the burner
Install the new glow coil with the furnished screws
Reinstalled the 2 wires back where you took them off
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ovens ignitor went out as they so often do...
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Las Vegas, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I first checked the power by pushing oven button, I heard the relay make a sound " CLICK" ,I then knew it wasnt the power .I then removed the oven racks and then I removed the the two screws holding the pan in place. I hit the power button and noticed the ignitor did not glow as it should.I ordered the part and replaced it and had froze n pizza 20 minutes later.
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Old igniter failed
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from Yuma, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced the old igniter with new one in 15 minutes. Popped the door off, took the bottom plate off, unscrewed the igniter and disconnected wires. Put the new igniter in and reversed the steps.....piece o'cake! Works great now!
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oven would not light.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chad from Hanford, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
simple remove & replace. 2 min job. Couldn't be happier.
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The oven would not ignite
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Las Vegas, NV
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I took the old igniter out and replaced it with a new one.
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oven would not start,
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from LaMoille, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
removed screw from heat sheild, unpluged igniter and tested for 110v on wires feeding igniter (ok). removed bad igniter,ordered new one and installed with 2 - 1/4in. hex head screws. cut old male and female plug ends off old igniter, and wirenutted onto new igniter. turned on oven and it works fine. but noticed after oven burner lights, i gniter stays on the whole time oven is on. I would think that it should go off when burner lites. Does anyone know if this is normal operation?
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Gas Oven would not lite - broiler and top burners operate
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Mentor, OH
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
The stories posted on your web page are great - only improvement would to add a schematic of the parts being removed - no issues were encountered - great service by the way - part arrived the next day - a Saturday!

John M.
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Broiler heats up but the oven wouldn't.....
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theresa from Douglasville, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Per the instructions included with my part and from reading prior posts, I unplugged my range, removed my storage drawer, took the screws out of the bottom pan and removed. I found the igniter really easy to locate. As it was held in by a bracket that was soldered in, I found no need to remove many screws or to add the included mounting hardware as the part instructions suggested. I removed it, placed and mounted the new igniter (only two screws) before I snipped the connecting wires. Stripping the insulation material off of the wires seemed to be the MOST difficult part! I spliced the new to the old using ceramic caps enclosed with part, plugged in the range and fired it up...just to be sure it worked, and it did! I reversed the process to put it back together. Voila!
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I would turn oven on and it show 100 but would not light.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • gerald from South San Francisco, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with exce llent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald
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The oven igniter on our GE oven failed to ignite and the oven refused to work.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Otsego, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy proce ss(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.
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Oven Would Not Light
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Randolph, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the bottom cover plate and the bottom storage drawer. Disconnected the burner and removed it. Replaced the old igniter with the new one. The new one required the wire connectors from the old one to be spliced onto it. Reattached the ignitor to the burner and reinstalled the burner. Tested the new ignitor before reinstalling the co ver plate and storage drawer.
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Oven quit heating up
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Rutland, VT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench set
There are other descriptions here, but here's my story. I pulled the oven door off (pull straight up on it, it will come off) and removed the bottom warming drawer (there are plastic tabs on the outside of each side of the drawer--slide them and pull, several times on each side). I turned off the gas from behind the stove and unplugged th e range, undid two screws at the back of the oven floor and lifted it forward and up. The burner is visible, but here is the hard part. The bolts holding the ignitor are underneath it and angled such that it is almost impossible to get any type of tool near them. I have small hands, and that helped. The screws are a bolt-head type or hex head, and I found that a one quarter inch open end wrench sort of fit. 6mm was too small and 7mm was too large. I managed to get the screws loosened after much struggling and manuvering, with half my body inside the oven, and once it was out, I was able to reach in from where the warming drawer was and unscrew the two wire leads attached from the ignitor to the power. They are held by plastic screwcaps. The reverse process was self explanatory, except that you should put the new ignitor in the oven and feed the wires down through the back panel, then attach the screwcaps to join the wires to the leads. Then go back in the oven and attach the ignitor, back screw first, and tighten it all the way, since you may not be able to reach it once the front screw is in. Also, use the screws that come with the new ignitor, since they are easier to start than the old ones. Tighten the screws as tight as you can get them so the ignitor doesn't wiggle, then turn the gas back on and plug it in, and test it before you put it back to gether. Mine worked, but it was a pain to do, kind of like working on an old car that wasn't designed to be fixed easily. Good luck.
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All Instructions for the 911604
106 - 120 of 233