9114905 Kenmore Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions
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Needed to replace missing trim
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jennifer from Castaic, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Before you get started on this be sure that you already have the Bottom Cabinet Trim Assembly (item #PS952490) either ordered or installed. We were not aware that you had to order both trim items separately which meant we had to remove the oven door twice. Using the screwdriver to pull back the door tabs, we first removed the oven door. T
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he trim installed very easy. We just lined up the holes, pushed in, and then down on the trim to lock it in place. When reinstalling the oven door, be sure that door latches are almost fully extended before reinserting them into their slots.
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Broil element on top oven was not working
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andrew from pittstown, NJ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Shut the power off at the electric box.Disconnected coil from roof clips.Pulled wire connection from back wall. Disconnected wire clips, connected new unit.Clipped to roof and turned on" Working fine".
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Broiler Element burnt out
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Cherri from Katy, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
The actual repair was relatively easy but access to the area in the oven made it a little difficult. Just unscrew 5 screws with a nut driver, unplug the old element, plug in the new element and reinstall the 5 screws. The only thing that made this repair difficult was being able to reach the connectors where you plug in the new element.
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They are loose wire connectors that don't reach very far out of the element receptacle. It was difficult to hold the end of the connector and plug in the new element because the oven door is in your way. Maybe it is easier if you take the oven door off first?
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oven temp. was not what setting called for
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John from Acme, WA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.
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3 of 4 Oven Lamps burnt out
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Dave from Woodbine, MD
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Remove the glass cover to the halogen lamp fixture (counter clockwise turn, about a 1/4 turn). Recommend use of rubber coated gloves as the glass covers do not offer much by way of a good grip. Gently remove the halogen lamp (bulb) and insert new bulb into socket. Since the oven door is open, the lamp will light up indicating successful
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installation. Replace the glass cover (clockwise turn) until secure. Pitch the burnt out halogen lamp in the trash.
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Oven temperature was low when reading was correct
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Orion from Vancouver, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the b
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ack top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!
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defective oven door seal
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Brenda from Cave Creek, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
pull out defective seal with pliers clean area and press new seal into place making sure the spring clips on seal are completely inserted into door slots push ends of seal into holes in bottom of door
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Broken Door Switch
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Peter from Green Valley, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
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Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the rep
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lacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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Broiler heating element was not working
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Jim from Hyrum, UT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.
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broken switch
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Bob from Marcy, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
This was a wall mounted oven. Turned off breaker. Pulled panel off by removing 6 screws. Pulled connectors off old switch. Removed old switch. Just a friction fit. I used my jack knife to get it moving. Pushed in the new switch and connected wires. (just push on tabs) Put panel back together and turned on breaker. Done, easy.
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gasket replacement
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Marilyn from Auburn, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one on. Not difficult at all.
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Broiler Element Repair
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Robert from SANTA MARIA, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find t
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he problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.
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