911483 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.

first, made sure circuit breaker was off
second, used nut driver to remove 2 screws on old element, pulled it from the back of the oven
third, removed 2 wires from old element (spade connectors)
fourth, connected new element and pushed back into oven.
fifth, reinstalled 2 screws securing new element

this was ... Read more all done by my 15 yr old son under my supervision.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches, but I had not turned off the power.
So, I shorted out one of the wires. Then I turned off the power but was afraid to go any farther.
An appliance repairman was at my house that day fixing my dryer seal. He was able to pu ... Read more ll the wires through the insulation successfully and install the broiler element. He did not charge me any extra for this little extra job. But I learned my lesson. Cut the power before you begin! He told me that I could have wound up with a much bigger repair if the short had been in the wire that is connected to the control panel of the oven. I was very lucky!

at first thought the seal would just slide out and the same for the replacement. when I realized that this was not the case and began to wonder what....? I saw the screws at top and bottom, took them off and voila the inner shell moved forward enough to take out the old, slide in the new, push in, replace the screws and back to a happy w ... Read more ife with an oven that can bake correctly again

FIRST MAKE SURE THE OVEN IS OFF!!!! I chose to shut it off at the breaker panel. Remove the two screws that attaches the broiler element to the oven. Gently pull it out. Unplug the two cable wires that are attached. Replace it and install the same way.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires

Pulled Circuit Breaker to turn off power to oven

Removed oven door just to get it out of way

Removed top panel by removing two screws on
underneath panel left and right

Panel must be lifted to releace from two guide pins
At top, I used towel protect panel and layed panel
down flat.

... Read more />I drew picture of old ERC and labeled where each
Wire went and what color it was.

I removed old ERC by removing four screws and
placed it next to new ERC.

I made drawing of new ERC-3 and decided where
each wire would go.

The replacement instruction apeared difficult to me the first time I read them, but after finding the
Small stamped letters on the broil and bake controls on the ERC it became fairly easy.

There are more connections on the new ERC
Than I needed for my Installation. I installed the
New ERC and everything worked fine.

Based on the model number of the unit, I was able to locate the part that I need from the Partselect.com web site. It was very easy to order and I recieved the part very fast. To my surprise, I only had to remove a total of 6 screws. First, I removed the two screws that hold the oven panel in place. After popping the panel away from t ... Read more he oven frame, I angeled it so that I can remove the four screws holding down the old oven control. Once removed, I replaced with the new part, replaced all of the color coded wires, followed by screwing the panel back into place. Very easy to do and saved tons of money.

After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, th ... Read more e new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!

First I removed the oven door from the appliance. Then I placed it on a table and removed the screws from around the edges. First I removed an aluminum heat shield. Then I removed the first of three heat shielding glass viewing panels, followed by the second one by removing even more screws. I carefuly laid the parts out in the oreder ... Read more that I remove them along with their screws. Next I removed the large heat shielding aluminum plate that held the first two glass heat shields. Then removed a layer of insulation. Then I was down to the sheel steal plate that holds the gasket. As a precaution I removed the thick pyrex glass heat shilding viewing panel. Lastly the plate that held the door seal was removed. After removing the old gasket, I carefully placed the new oven door gasket in place. After cleaning all the parts that had been removed, I replaced them one at a time in reverse order. Most of my time was spent cleaning. How ever I was especially impressed with the good condition of the oven door after 20 years of approximately every other day oven use. Thanks

removed 4 screws of the back fan cover, then removed the two screws holding the element and disconnected the slip-on electrical wire connections. replaced enement and cover in reverse. this was all done after i cut power at circut breaker duhh

I removed the two mounting screws then pulled the element forward and disconnected the two element screws. I reversed the process to install the new one/ this oven is over 30yrs old.

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two he ... Read more x head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

If I'd had the Nut driver, it would have taken 15 -20 minutes or less. Went to Ace Hardware, bought the nut driver for $4.99.

Turn off the power at the box! Turn off the oven as well. Four screws total. Two to hold it in place and two that connect the element to the source.

First I removed the two screws that h ... Read more old the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2 inches. Two more screws connect the element wires. I disconnected the element, threw it away, then connected the new element. I put the element in place, then replaced the screws that connect the power. Finally, I replaced the screws that hold the element in place.

Kimberly, El Cerrito, California

The most obbious suspect is the upper oven fan. Turned off power circuit breaker. Removed two philip screws at top of control panel and lowered the panel. Using the 3D view of the oven on this web site I located the fan limit switch. Jumpered the limit switch. Turned power on and the fan ran. That proved the switch was defective and ... Read more not the fan. Replaced the limit I purchased from Partselect.com.

Please note* My life career was electrical. I used the schematic that came with the oven to determine that the limit was the only control between one of the 240 volt lines and the fan. Thus I knew it was safe to jump the limit.

If you are in doubt, seek some advice.
Good Luck, Arno