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9114656 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 9114656
46 - 60 of 511

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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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wire connection to socket was bad
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Gansevoort, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.
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Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from plainfield, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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Broil element snapped and went on fire.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • kathleen from broad channel, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I could not believe how easy it was to repair my own oven! Honestly I was shocked. I pulled the oven out, unscrewed 7 screws, pulled the old element out, placed the new one in, replaced the screws and I was done. All I could think about was how much money I saved! Also, it took me about 15 minutes.
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The old single heating element support clips came loose over time.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from SALISBURY, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've wit hstood the modification.
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broiler element melted
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Grady from Myrtle Beach, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
pulled range out, unplugged unit, took out 7 screws, unplugged the elements, reinstalled elements, replugged, and completed with the 7 screws back in place. The 30 minute time was replacing both the broiler and bake elements. The parts were also delivered in a very timely manner. Could not have been more pleased and was very cost effec tive.
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Burnt Smell
8 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from Hilton Head, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
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heating element clap broke off
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Hedgesville, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.
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no burnt wire
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernard from N CHARLESTON, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replace part an wires
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terminal was broken due to maney uses
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Emmett J from Winchester, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
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Heating element had shorted out and broken.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lisa from Lexington, KY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unscrewed the heating element from the inside back of the oven and removed the housing cover from the back of the stove to access the terminals. (The unit had arked and fused the terminal to the connector.) Installed the new unit and replaced the housing cover on the back and screwed the unit into the back of the oven. Works like a charm .
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Large burner didn't work
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mell from San Antonio, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Switching out the part was reasonably easy. The hard part twas that over 15 years some of the other parts have dried out. The oven indicator light came loose and the tabs on the clock were broken. With the help of some glue & some Z bracket it is back together minus the oven indicator light. Not perfect but cheaper than buying a new one.
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Element control stopped working
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Covesville, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the stove. I then removed the control panel using a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws (phillips head) holding the element in. Five wires had to be disconnected from the old element and placed on the new one. As I removed each wire from the burned out element, I placed it in the same place on the n ew one. I then replacedd the element on the stove and put the control panel back in placed. I plugged the stove into the wall outlet and tested the element control. This whole procedure took no longer than about fifteen minutes.
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Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For eac h unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
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oven door jammed,could not open it
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Winchester, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Removed old hinges and installed new hinges.
Hardest part was determining that worn hinges were the cause of problem, then ordering replacements. GE website hinge on exploded view did not look like hinges I removed.Thanks to Google I got on to PartSelect.com website where excellent pictures of hinges and one-inch grid confirmed they sold exactly what I wanted for my 13-year old range, the model number of which was not even on the GE website.
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All Instructions for the 9114656
46 - 60 of 511