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911454 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 911454
46 - 60 of 411

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Element control stopped working
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Covesville, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the stove. I then removed the control panel using a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws (phillips head) holding the element in. Five wires had to be disconnected from the old element and placed on the new one. As I removed each wire from the burned out element, I placed it in the same place on the n ew one. I then replacedd the element on the stove and put the control panel back in placed. I plugged the stove into the wall outlet and tested the element control. This whole procedure took no longer than about fifteen minutes.
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Electric Burner Control Broken
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from VINELAND, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!
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infinite switch would not shut off at times.
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ervin from Milford, DE
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.
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Heating element had shorted out and broken.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lisa from Lexington, KY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unscrewed the heating element from the inside back of the oven and removed the housing cover from the back of the stove to access the terminals. (The unit had arked and fused the terminal to the connector.) Installed the new unit and replaced the housing cover on the back and screwed the unit into the back of the oven. Works like a charm .
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heating element clap broke off
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Hedgesville, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.
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Burnt Smell
8 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from Hilton Head, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
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terminal was broken due to maney uses
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Emmett J from Winchester, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
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Large burner didn't work
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mell from San Antonio, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Switching out the part was reasonably easy. The hard part twas that over 15 years some of the other parts have dried out. The oven indicator light came loose and the tabs on the clock were broken. With the help of some glue & some Z bracket it is back together minus the oven indicator light. Not perfect but cheaper than buying a new one.
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Replace the light bulb socket.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from SOUTHBRIDGE, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Alls well that ends well. General Electric changed the configuration of our Light bulb socket on our 1996 oven. It did not have a flange with two screws as the original. The new one, you will just connect it and twist it into place. It worked and we are very happy. Such wonderful people to deal with at this site. Our sincere thanks,
Richard and Shirley
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Lower heating element cracked
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Dayton, OH
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Followed the video directions on your website - GREAT INFORMATION. Everything went very smoothly It took me longer to find my work light (after turning off the electric to the oven) out in the garage than it did to complete the repair!! SUPER PLEASED - WOULD NOT HESITATE TO RECOMMEND THIS COMPANY TO ANY DIY ADVENTURER!!
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Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For eac h unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
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Oven Light Assembly damaged
5 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jose from Frederick, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa
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F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rachele from OCEANSIDE, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip discon nected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
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burner wouldn't heat up
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Saratoga Springs, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
pulled out the stove,,unhooked the power cord from outlet. I then pulled the control knob off and removed the the six screws from the back panel. I then removed the two screws the were under the knob and removed switch from panel..I unhooked the wires one at a time and rehooked them to the new switch,,pushed the switch back in the panel a nd installed the two screws. The knob was different from the shaft on the new switch so I took my dremel and contoured the shaft to fit my switch. I plugged the stove back into the outlet and it worked perfect..
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Have tried 3 different store-bought drip pan sets over the past year. None of them laid flat.
10 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jennifer from Saginaw, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Simple installation of new pans and all are level! Thank heaven! Thank you, PartSelect!
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All Instructions for the 911454
46 - 60 of 411