911421 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Oven would not maintain set temperature
11 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Leonel from Biddeford, ME
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
18 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
- Very Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl
... Read more
iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
the bottom baking element broke on my upper oven... cracken in half
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Kathy from Naperville, IL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Wrench set
It was very simple.. first turn off the electricity... next take out the two screws holding the element to the back of the oven... then pull the two plugs apart( male and female ends) ... throw away old part.
put new part in by plugging the male and female ends back together... push back into oven back.. get all insulation back in... ... Read more put two old screws back in to secure... done.. turn on power...
don't be afraid.. it was very, very easy.
put new part in by plugging the male and female ends back together... push back into oven back.. get all insulation back in... ... Read more put two old screws back in to secure... done.. turn on power...
don't be afraid.. it was very, very easy.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Lower element burned out
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
John from Germantown, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove the screws inside the oven holding the back of the element to the rear wall of the oven. These scrrews are a square drive. Pull element forward and remove 2 screws that hold wires in place. Both sets of screws needed to be replaced with a different size. Reverse order to install.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven bake element blew out
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Michael from Indianapolis, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Shut off the power from the fuse box. Removed p the two screws and plate that attach the element to the wires and back of oven. Installed the replacement element by attaching the wires and reinserting the two screws. Restored power and tested the new element by preheating the oven at 350 degrees and letting it heat for 15 minutes. Works
... Read more
like a charm!
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
26 year old oven, lower element burned into two pieces.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
marsha from oklahoma city, OK
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first removed the broken element by removing the two hexhead screws on either side of the element bracket. Then I gently pulled the wires through the opening and removed two more screws that attached the wiring to the element. I then compared the new and old elements and found a few differences.
First, the screw holes whe ... Read more re the wires connect to the element were tiny in the new element, about a third the size of the holes in the old one. Secondly, the mounting bracket was not as long as the original, and the holes to mount it to the back of the oven are located at the top of the bracket, instead of the sides.
Since this was the only element that I have found, that comes close to the original, I decided to make it work.
I took my drill and a small bit and bored out the screw holes, just enough to get a self taping screw to fit and reconnected the wires.
Now I'm not sure that I would recomment the next step to anyone, but I did this: I held the new bracket against the back of the oven and drilled new holes to match the new bracket, and again used self tapping screws. The reason that I don't encourage this is that the new bracket fits just inside of the old opening, but the insulation cannot be seen as long as the element does not get moved. I then plugged the original bracket holes with the original hex head screws.
It took a little more time and effort than I had expected, but well worth it, after eight months without the use of my oven.
First, the screw holes whe ... Read more re the wires connect to the element were tiny in the new element, about a third the size of the holes in the old one. Secondly, the mounting bracket was not as long as the original, and the holes to mount it to the back of the oven are located at the top of the bracket, instead of the sides.
Since this was the only element that I have found, that comes close to the original, I decided to make it work.
I took my drill and a small bit and bored out the screw holes, just enough to get a self taping screw to fit and reconnected the wires.
Now I'm not sure that I would recomment the next step to anyone, but I did this: I held the new bracket against the back of the oven and drilled new holes to match the new bracket, and again used self tapping screws. The reason that I don't encourage this is that the new bracket fits just inside of the old opening, but the insulation cannot be seen as long as the element does not get moved. I then plugged the original bracket holes with the original hex head screws.
It took a little more time and effort than I had expected, but well worth it, after eight months without the use of my oven.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
element burned out
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
John from Durham, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
It's so simple most people could mannage the repair. Turn oven off. Remove oven door and shelves. Use a nut driver to remove mounting screws. Pliers to pull quick connect terminated wires off element terminals. Use pliers to push connectors onto new element,wires may connect to either terminal. Nut driver for screws to mechanically mount
... Read more
new element. Replace shelves and door. First time element gets hot it will burn off oils and dirt, not a problem but do it now not later.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Replace the heating coil in convection oven
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Victoria from San Jose, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
[1] squirted LiquidWrench on the 4 screws holding the convection fanblade rear cover in place. Used a socket and rachet to remove screws; the loosener really helped after 10+ years.
[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back ... Read more into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.
[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back ... Read more into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
TOP OVEN BROILER ELEMENT BURNED OUT & BROKE
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
HIDDEN HILLS from TONASKET, WA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
1) TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. 2) REMOVED THE TOP DOOR AND RACKS. 3) REMOVED THE 2- 1/4 HEAD HEX NUTS AND PULLED THE ELEMENT FORWARD ENOUGH TO EXPOSE THE ELECTRICAL CLIPS TO THE ELEMENT. REMOVED THE CLIPS WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE AS ADDED GRIP. 4) PUT THE WIRE CLIPS ON THE NEW ELEMENT A
... Read more
ND REVERSED THE ABOVE PROCEDURES.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Baking element quit
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Richard from Laguna Niguel, CA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Removed burned out element and discovered replacement element had a different back plate and different hole pattern. Also, the electical connecttion from power wires to ends of element were a TOTALLY different size, both in hole size and size of material that hole was placed. This tood a lot of slow increasing the size of the hole time.
... Read more
Also, the backplate was a different size with a two hole pattern at the top of the plate, as oppossed to the original plate with holes centered at the sides of the plate. Had to drill holes in back oven wall higher than I wanted, as the oven wall had a depression in the back wall and I could not drill at that point. By drilling holes that were higher than previous holes, there was now a 1/2" opening at the bottom of this plate. Used a hack saw and cut off a piece of the old plate to slip underneath, then screwed in the new plate, thus filling the remaining opening, and securing the additional hand made additional plate. This was a lot more than I had bargain for, and when I turned on the oven, it did not work! I re-checked the connection of the power wires to the grid element and found one of the connections to be disconnected. Reconnected this wire and everything is just ducky now.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
unit burnt out no broiler
7 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Becky from Piedmont, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
took old unit and measured it part select made it easy for me ordered new unit and installed easily and quick thanks to quick service and shipping
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Bad element
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ed from Talladega, AL
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed mounting screws and element only pulled out about 2 inches. Disconnected wires and had to drill slightly bigger hole in element ends to reattach wires. Element mounting bracket was different than old element. Had to use one existing screw hole in oven back and drill a new one.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven element burned out
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
STEVEN from EXTON, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Truned off the power took out the two screws holding the old element disconnect the power leads and put in the new element. Was great to recieve the new element in one day, the day before Xmas.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Rachele from OCEANSIDE, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip discon
... Read more
nected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Carolyn from MASON, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the o
... Read more
fficial Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!