9113676 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Pulled off burner grates, burner, unscrewed burner bowl, removed clip from igniter and wire, then put it all back together. Was very easy, and the stove looks like new again.

PartSelect is very good with amazing shipment times. The kjpart arrived much sooner than expected.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the ... Read more plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

The most difficult part of the repair was getting the front panel off. I needed to remove the top of the stove, which was easy but awkward - remove the two screws from each of the four burner bowls. Lift the bowls one by one, disconnect the wire and slide off the small clip under each igniter. Move the bowls and igniters out of the way. Y ... Read more ou will find a piece of sealant underneath the stove top covering the length of the front panel. You need to gently pry it off by lifting the stove top just enough to break the seal. Once the top is separated just gently move it to the back of the stove. You can now remove the 3 large screws underneath the front panel. There are also 2 screws under the plastic anchors that hold the front panel in place. Be careful, there are hidden screws in the back of each anchor, so don't break them. You just need to loosen them just enough to wiggle the front panel out. With the panel moved, the igniter switches are mounted over each knob. There is a spring washer clip holding them down. Gently pry off the clip of the damaged switch and disconnect the two wires. Make sure you put the wires back in the same order.

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip discon ... Read more nected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

No way to adjust mixer tube assembly so the mounting holes will line up with the holes in the burner bowl. Mounting
holes in bowl should be slotted to prevent future problems.
Had to finally bend the mixer tube mounting bracket enough to get one bowl on. It also made the procelin break
on that bowl because the screw put t ... Read more o much pressure on the side of the hole.

Igighter mounting hole out of position just enough to prevent the burner head from sliding over it and sitting on
the mixer tube correctly.

I solved this problem by fileing the opening slot for the igniter. Even with the igniters being just a little out of
alignment from the original position they still light well.

I did not get new gaskets for the burner bowl but would reccommend that you get them.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the o ... Read more fficial Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

I replaced the igniter under the knob.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Shut of electric supply. Remove knobs and open top cover of cook top by removing two screws near each burner and replace switch.

The replacement part not right size for the porcelain cone for gas. Had to unscrew 2 screws remove the cone, after unclicking gas wire. The gas spreader did not fit with the cone in place.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer ... Read more works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

I removed the screws on thr frount console. I removed the end caps and removed the wiers from the control and replased it . I reversed the pross to resamble the stove.

Replaced Spark Module and adjusted igniters

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

REMOVED 5 PHILLIPS SCREWS
REMOVED BROKEN RT CAP
INSTALLED NEW END CAP
REINSTALLED THE SCREWS
PROJECT COMPLETE