911321 - Instructions
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Oven would not light
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from Clare, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It took a while to determine the cause of the problem because I was not familiar with gas appliances.After finding the problem I ordered a new igniter. The part was there in two and a half days!! I had it partly apart when the part arrived so it only took about 30 minutes to complete the repair. I would recomend PartsSelect to anyone. I h
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ave never had parts come that quickly.
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Oven Not Working but, Roaster and Burners work
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Arthur from Humble, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!
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Oven not heating to bake items.
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Annapolis, MD
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced wit
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h new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.
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Oven would not heat.
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Haddonfield, NJ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.
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oven would not light
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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scott from west barnstable, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance ... Read more repair etc.
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance ... Read more repair etc.
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oven wont heat
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from Skokie, IL
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.
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Oven won't light & no gas flow
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Katy, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before perfor ... Read more ming any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)
Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).
1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before perfor ... Read more ming any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)
Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).
1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)
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I would turn oven on and it show 100 but would not light.
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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gerald from South San Francisco, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with exce
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llent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald
Thanks,Gerald
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The oven igniter on our GE oven failed to ignite and the oven refused to work.
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Otsego, MI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy proce
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ss(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.
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the oven wouldn't light
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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james from myersville, MD
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers
I went to the GE website, did the trouble shooting and read that 80% of the time the igniter was the problem. I read how others did the repair, ordered the part and followed their steps. My only problem was the two screws were at a tough angle to get to, if it wasn't for that it would've been 15 minutes
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Our 15yr old gas range oven no longer worked
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lawrence from Algonquin, IL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
It was a few days before Thanksgiving and our oven went out. We had out of town guests coming for a week stay with us. I fortunately found the instruction manual and hopefully thought it was the igniter. I called Parts Select and unbelievably I received it the next day. I checked with the helpfull hints to installing it. It was easy and q
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uick. The only problem I had was laying on the floor to long, I had trouble getting up. I'm 70 years old. Thank you Parts select for having the part and your incredible delivery.
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oven failed to light, tripped afci - broiler and cooktop worked ok
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Canterburry, NH
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
replaced oven igniter - further details superflous as others have acurately documented the fix and procedure - thanks to all of you -
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gas oven would not fire up.
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alex from Cookeville, TN
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Got the igniter ordered. Since the original igniter was still on the appliance, I had to cut the wires on the original igniter in order to be able to attach the new igniter with the wire connectors supplied. Make sure not to cut the wire on the original(defective) igniter too short because otherwise you will have to splice again.
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Wires On The Stove Were Short.
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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william from chicopee, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed the back part of the stove to reveal the wires connected to the igniter. Removed the wire nuts and removed the igniter. Reused the old bracket to mount the new part. Attached the wire nuts and replaced the back parts of the stove. Worked like a charm.
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oven wouldn't ignite and/or heat properly when it did ignite
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edward from McDonough, GA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the bottom oven drawer then
I removed the heat shields. I removed the two
wires that connected the igniter and the two screws holding the igniter and removed it. I
replaced a wire connector on one side of the
igniter. The other igniter wire I soldered together
to the other wire. Then I replaced ... Read more the igniter by
reconnecting the two mounting screws. Then I replaced the heat shields and the oven drawer.
I removed the heat shields. I removed the two
wires that connected the igniter and the two screws holding the igniter and removed it. I
replaced a wire connector on one side of the
igniter. The other igniter wire I soldered together
to the other wire. Then I replaced ... Read more the igniter by
reconnecting the two mounting screws. Then I replaced the heat shields and the oven drawer.
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