9112W Magic Chef Range - Instructions
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smell gas and sometimes a whoof on ignition
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Maynard from Knox, IN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the flame baffle , removed the two screws that held the ignitor. Then I pulled the wires thru the back wall and disconnected . I had to cut the the connector and install with wire nuts because connector was different. Works fine now .
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Oven burner will not light consistantly
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Rockford, MI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The oven was inconsistanty lighting and I could not predict when it would. After reading some repair reviews I determined that the problem was most likely the igniter. I purchased one from your site and it arrived the next day. Awsome! Had to take out six screws to get to the wiring and removed the igniter. The wiring was a simple pl
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ug. Replaced the igniter in about 20 minutes and the oven has been working flawless every since. THANKS!
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smell gas on oven start up
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wayne from Long Grove, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
took oven tray out and loosened igniter and replace same works great.
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oven would not light
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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mark from fredericksburg, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
replaced the igniter in oven
Other Parts Used:
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Oven making whooshing sound and not heating up
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Williamsburg, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pulled oven out from wall. Unplugged. Pulled out bottom drawer. Removed oven door by pulling up on angle. Removed bottom of oven. Removed old ignitor by taking out screws. Disconnected red and white wiring plastic coupler. Fed new wiring and connected. Mounted ignitor. Plugged back in. Very easy and worked!
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Oven Ignitor went to ignitor heaven.
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from Pittsburgh, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
The repair was real easy, other than the old bolts which just turned in the sockets when trying to get them out. It might be a good idea to provide two nuts and bolts to negate this problem. I would not mind paying a dollar or two extra for two bolts and nuts. Other than that, the instructions were clear. Product arrived on time and I wou
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ld absolutely use your services again. Oven is back to working great! Thank you!
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Igniter Would Glow But Stove Wouldn't Light
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ALAN from LUCK, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I noticed that the ignitor would glow but the stove wouldn't light - I got the model number of the stove and googled the maytag model number. Came upon your website and realized that 94% of the time the problem was the amps were not enough to light the stove. I looked at all of the stories on how easy it was to fix. I ordered the pa
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rt and received it within 3 days. I opened the door part way and lifted it straight up to remove it. I pulled out the bottom broiler plate by grabbing the back on pulling up. I undscrewed the wing nut of the flame bar and had easy access to the igniter. I removed the two nuts from the old igniter. Unplugged the igniter from the easy access door from the back and plugged in the new igniter. Replaced the access door and attached the igniter with the two nuts. Put the flame bar back on, put the broiler plate back on, put the door back on, plugged in the stove turned it on and success. It was so easy. I know in our area I would have paid near $200 for a service technician to come out and do what I did in approx. 20 Minutes and $50 for the part. Thank you so much for you website to help us not so talented appliance repair homeowners.
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Oven very slow to light on bake mode. Gas smell.
2 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fred from Suwannee, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I removed the bottom plate in the oven. The ignitor was located at the rear of the burner and I removed to screws and it was loose except for the two wires. Next I removed the bottom tray from the stove. Two screws held the metal guard in place at the rear of the stove. After removing the plate, I determined which wires belonged
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to the ignitor, unplugged them at the coupling and pulled the wires out through the bottom of the oven. Replacing the ignitor was simply to reverse the proceedure. PartSelect got the part right out to me, installing the new part was a breeze, and my wife calls me her "hero." This site was a real help and saved me a service/repair bill. Thanks!
Fred
Fred
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The broiler would not lite at all and the oven would lite occasionally but would not maintain temperature.
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Vincent from Lewes, DE
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket ... Read more wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket ... Read more wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
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Replacement of igniter
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Orange, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.
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Oven wouldn't light
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michael from newhall, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, y ... Read more ou will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, y ... Read more ou will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
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Oven would'nt heat
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ariel from Oxford, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven wo ... Read more rked perfectly
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven wo ... Read more rked perfectly
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Strong odor of gas when oven in use. Oven took over a minute to light with low flame level (ie 1/4").
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linford from Cedarville, NJ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed bottom plate from oven enclosure.
Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven.
Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ... Read more ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.
Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven.
Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ... Read more ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.
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Oven wouldn't ignite
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anatoly from Palatine, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
... Read more />6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
... Read more />6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
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oven would not heat up
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Albert from Charlotte, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
it was so easy my wife could do it!!!!!!!!
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