8ED2F Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions
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My son broke my crisper drawer (the edge that made the drawer stay on track, so I wanted another one.
37 of 44 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Marion from New Burn, NC
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I took the old drawer out and replaced it with the new one!
I hooked a new door bin in the door for more room!
I hooked a new door bin in the door for more room!
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Light Switch broke
48 of 78 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James Richard from St. Cloud, MN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only
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swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
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Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID
38 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Ringoes, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat.
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Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James
-James
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Refrigerator Wasn't Cooling,Evaporater Coil Freezing Up
38 of 50 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Doral, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of
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the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good
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Frige Door Wouldn't Stay Closed, Would open when freezer door was closed.
33 of 37 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Las Vegas, NV
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts arrived at 2:30PM.
Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.
Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did n ... Read more ot have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)
I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)
I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.
I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.
You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.
I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.
Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.
Done by 3:00PM.
Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.
Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did n ... Read more ot have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)
I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)
I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.
I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.
You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.
I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.
Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.
Done by 3:00PM.
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meat pan and crisper pan broken runners
32 of 39 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Troy, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
due to over filling and closing the drawers with the door and kicking, the plastic runners broke. Also, over filling the drawers did not help.
AS for the repair, the only difficulty was getting the right drawer in the right spot. Since I replaced both the veggie and meat drawer at the same time, I got them confused. On drawer is ... Read more longer than the other. other than that, no problem.
AS for the repair, the only difficulty was getting the right drawer in the right spot. Since I replaced both the veggie and meat drawer at the same time, I got them confused. On drawer is ... Read more longer than the other. other than that, no problem.
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Our six year old fridge would not stop running - everything was frozen. Found if I tapped on the Tstat I could sometimes get it to turn off.
29 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeff from Belleville, WI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove the knobs and faceplate to get at the screws behind it. Removing the sensor is a bit involved but everything else is fairly straight forward. See other postings for description / order of operation. Replacement took less than 30 minutes.
Works great now!
Works great now!
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Defrost timer was faulty. It would not restart on it's own.
33 of 47 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ed from Frankfort, IN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!
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The light switch on the refridgerator broke - no light.
36 of 58 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Albany, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.
The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.
I'm very pleased!
The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.
I'm very pleased!
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Broken Shelf Bracket
26 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Leesburg, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed food itmes on broken shelf. Removed old glass shelf cover. Removed broken shelf bracket. Installed new shelf bracket. Intalled new glass shelf cover. Replaced food items back on shelf
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REplaced ice maker
30 of 42 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
M from Lafayette, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Replacement was very easy as new ice maker was identical to the old one. Took about 10 minutes.
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broken meat and vegatable draw
25 of 28 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
douglas g. from roanoke, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
a simple replacement
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refrigerator door wouldn't remain closed
27 of 34 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Thomas from Fairfax, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The plastic lower door closing cam was worn down. Replacing it was very simple: remove the top door hinge by unscrewing three nuts; lift the door off the lower hinge; unscrew and remove the lower door hinge; screw the new plastic lower door closing cam on to the new door hinge; screw the new lower door hinge; lift the door back on to th
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e lower door hinge; screw the top door hinge.
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Refrigerator door fails to close on its own like it is designed to.
23 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Jay from Oconomowoc, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the
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door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.
The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.
The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.
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refrigerator was intermittently cooling because thermostat contacts burned away.
23 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Dennis from Westlake, OH
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turn off the fridge and unplug the power. Inside the refrigerator unit, remove two plastic panels extending from the front to the rear cooling vent by unscrewing two screws. Gently unhook the thermostat tube from the rear vent.
On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove fo ... Read more ur screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.
Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.
On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove fo ... Read more ur screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.
Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.
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