8638 - Instructions

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

First I removed the 2 screws located on front panel securing dust collector in place, then I removed the two screws on the side of the dryer that secure the front panel. I also "popped" the top
of the dryer from the front panel. The front of the panel was then detached from the dryer. I thenpulled the gasket away from the collect ... Read more or, removed the old one and installed the new collector. Part of the kit also contained a new gasket to the exhaust duct, I merely removed the old gasket and installed the new one.. All this was notas hard asit sounds. The diagram from PartsSelect site helped

Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. The ... Read more n closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the ... Read more flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.

Web search to determine probable cause then search to find parts. Parts Select came through with the parts and quickly. Opened the top of the dryer (after disconnect from power-hate the smell of burning flesh) and found the parts that had up and died. Removed two screws for first part then one more and a lot of cursing to remove the othe ... Read more r. Reassembled in reverse order, more cursing the tight space. Dryer back in service, wife happy. Only minor blood loss from sharp parts of machine. Success!

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the g ... Read more low plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

I inserted the clip

unplug dryer, lift top, remove 2 screws holding front, lift & swing front to right, use nutdriver to remove two screws holding igniter and other piece attached with same screws, a couple wiggles and out, unplugged igniter, plug in new, reposition new igniter and other piece, replace screws, repositioned front panel, replaced front panel s ... Read more crews, dropped top back in place, plugged in and wha-la. Heat.
Original Igniter had a hairline crack in it causing it to intermittantly fire. Thanks PartSelect, right part and speedy delivery.

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

Easy Job.
First take a flat head screw driver and pop the top placing the screwdriver in between the front panel. The top of the dryer should pop up.
Then just pull it up and over towards the back.

Then unscrew the front panel and move it out of the way leaveing the front door atached to the panel.
Once you ope ... Read more n the front panel' You can pull the dryer tub out by sliding it out and at the same time you need to push the belt towards the back of the tub until it comes off.
Now you can get to the ingiter by first disamablethe gas
housing first.
Simply by taking one screw off and disconnecting the gas line fitting in front of the dryer. Also disconnect the 3 sets of wires that are connected to that piece and the igniter.
The hole piece will then come out with the igniter attached to it.
Next disconnect the igniter from the piece and replace it with new one.
Then put back togather the same way you took it apart.
Reinstalling the tub.
When it's time to put the tub back in; there's a trick to that.
Put tub in about 3/4 of the way in, put the belt around the tub and let the rest hang to the floor inside dryer.then crawl into the tub and stetch your head and arm through the tub on the back side.
Then you can get to the belt and route it into the motor and the pully that is spring loaded it makes it so much easer that way then trying to run the belt and route it in place from the top. Once that is done now you can adjust belt back to its orignal position then push the tub back in place. Reinstall fron panel and your their.
Total cost 36.00 plus shipping. Thats a lot cheaper then a sevice call and labor

(Electric) I opened the lid and propped it back on wall. The first piece was located all the way in the back mounted toward you. Easy enough. When it came to the thermal fuse, it was a bit trickier. It's located on the right side of the heating element wall. There is a screw straight on top of the wall. Mine was covered in lint, he ... Read more nce the thermal repair work:) Take the screw all the way out. The fuse is removed by lifting out the thermal fuse mounting bracket. Nothing special holding it in place. Just put the new one in the same way the old one came out. It was a bit difficult to wiggle the bracket back in, but I kept playing enough and it finally lost the battle. Put the screw back in, taking care to make sure it threads on top of the bracket to secure it against the heater element wall. Worked for me! Thanks everyone.

Verified power to the dryer with a volt meter. Identified the high limit fuses under the top cover. I used an ohm meter to determine the fuse located on the heater housing assembly was bad. The fuse located at the top (blue label) was not bad but I changed it since a new one was sent in the kit. Reassembled the dryer and it has been w ... Read more orking ever since. Found the problem on a Monday and ordered the part. Received the part on Wednesday and the problem was solved. Cost me about $31. Would have been triple that if a repairman would have been called. Thanks PartsSelect

First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on th ... Read more e floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.