8617 - Instructions

First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in ... Read more the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.

removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again

turned off power, removed two screws mounting the old element, cut wires, and removed old element, crimped new stake connectors onto existing wiring, attached stake connectors to new element, installed element with two new screws provided, turned power back on.
It would be easier to just slip the two stake connectors off and reinsta ... Read more ll on the new element but I elected to install new connectors because the oven was over ten years old and one seemed loose.

removed racks, bottom plate. removed screws with a little bit of help from cooking spray. Unclipped old ignitor clipped in new ignitor, used old screws, and inserted insulation replaced racks, bottom shelf. Turn on oven and worked, been using it for about a week now. PS. ordered on monday morning arrived wednesday afternoon.

Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no wate ... Read more r was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Clipped the wires back onto new element and used the two stainless screws provided in kit to resecure.

It should be noted that I first called a local Maytag Appliance Co. and inquired abou ... Read more t this element. I was told that they would have to order it and it would cost me 68.00 plus tax. I told them I knew what these elements are worth and their price was a gouge. They didn't care. This is a repair that anyone knowing how to work a Phillips screwdriver can perform. Save some money and do-it-yourself.

Thanks Partselect!

First I unpuged the Range. Then I removed all racks and bottom tray of oven.
The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I tur ... Read more ned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds.
Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE.
p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule .
THANKS A LOT !

i needed a rack for my oven i looked everywhere for one that fit could not find one.my oven is not common due to the fact it is for a very small space and only 18 " wide i stumbled on this site by accident and decided to try it out shipping was very fast and people there are very nice any have alot of knoldge about parts it is very well s ... Read more et up to order with just a modle # i have told my whole familey about this site they did a great job and i will be back for more parts.

I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker ha ... Read more s been working flawlessly since the repair.

Like another post, the start relay rattled like a baby rattle. Replaced the start relay and freezer works great.

i looked byhind the freezer , the mottor has the relay connected to it.i took out the relay, and i descovery something was loose inside, i decided to take to check out at sears to see if they have in stock that especific relay. they did not have, they could order, that's when i dicided to go ahead and looking for in the internet, good i f ... Read more ound PARTSELECT,they had the part and i was very nice attended,they sent in 2 days i had fix my freezer. thanks PARTSELECT. gilmar couto.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed the screws that held the element and disconnected it. Placed the new element in the proper place, connected the wiring, and replaced all the screws. The unit worked beautifully, and all is well. My wife is happy.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Fortunately, we had read the instructions on line, because none were included with the part. Still, it was REALLY easy. We unscrewed the two screws, pulled the element away from the back wall and pulled the wires off the contacts at the back. (That was the hardest part, because they were stuck-on well. WD-40 was helpful here.) The on ... Read more e piece of paper that did arrive with the part told us the ground wire was no longer necessary if you use the new screws that came with the part, so we ended up cutting the ground wire off. We then put the other wires back on the new contacts, pushed it back into place, and re-screwed it to the back wall. We have used the oven several times since, and it's all working well.