EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

8543 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 8543
91 - 105 of 3092

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Dryer would dry for 5-10 minuets then no heat
35 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Jerome, MI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
had to replace the motor
31 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • charles from parker, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Follow the advice given in the partsselect website. However, while removing the blower, my hand slipped into the housing and cut my thumb. Connected the wires to the junction box on the motor but didn't realize that the contacts would hit the drum when reinstalled. The original junction box was at a 90 degree rotation relative to the n ew box. When trying to test the breaker tripped. Using the multitester I found out that I burned out the thermal fuse, and froze the door switch. I replace both those parts and started the dryer and could hear a grinding sound. Inspection revealed that the housing of the motor was rubbing against the drum. Removing the drum yet again, I rotated the housing and replaced the drum. The dryer was finally working well.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not tumble.
25 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Minneapolis, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I wasn't sure if the problem was the belt (probable) or the idler pulley assembly (less likely) but the total for both parts was about $26 plus shipping. So why not replace both to be sure?

As it turns out, my original idler pulley assembly does not turn. Rather, it has a concave semi-circular piece that is fixed in place. T he belt ran in a groove in that piece.

The replacement part has a nylon wheel that turns. As a result of replacing the idler pulley assembly (which I don't think was necessary to fix my tumbling problem) the dryer runs much quieter. (We used to get a fair amount of squeaking when the belt rubbed).

As for the actual repair (I would rate myself as above average on tackling household repairs), it was about the simplest repair I've ever done. I followed the video provided on this site (excellent video) and it took less than 20 minutes -- cleaning up all of the lint/odds and ends under the washer and dryer took longer than the actual repair.

My only issue (minor) was disconnecting the electric harness. It did not slide as easily as in the video. I had to coax mine a bit with a small screwdriver (make sure your dryer is unplugged!!). I suspect it was simply a function of the harness never being unplugged -- the dryer is 9 years old.

I also felt great because I'm sure I saved a $125 service call (for only $26 in parts and 20 minutes of my life).

Good luck!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Drier would not heat
26 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Birmingham, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Wife said the drier was not heating. I looked on the internet and found Parts Select. Followed the instructions to test the heating element, thermal cut-offs, and thermostat. This is really easy, you just touch the terminals with the voltage meter to see which ones are not transmitting current (with the drier unplugged). One of the t hermal cut-offs was not transmitting current so I ordered the part Sunday night and had it by Wednesday morning and put it on it about five minutes. Steps:

1. Unplug drier
2. Unscrew back of drier
3. Unplug wires from terminals of the parts shown in Parts Select instructions (one at a time)
4. Get a basic voltage meter (I bought a cheap one at the big box store)
5. Test terminals (touch the red terminal on the voltage meter to one side, black to the other)
6. If the needle moves to the other side, the part is OK, if not order the part and replace.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not heat up.
26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Bonners Ferry, ID
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the f ront open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Drayer Was Making Squeaking Sound
26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Gray, TN
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Took off the top and front panel. Found that the belt tensioner was worn out. Decided to pull drum out,and replace the belt and drum rollers also. Put it back together, and it works fine.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not heat up; blow only air
26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Sacramento, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
I replaced the thermal cut off kit, and the dryer now had heat. Three days later, no heat; the thermal fuse also did not have continuity. Read on-line that overheating was the most likely cause. So, I checked the exhaust duct for blockage, but it was clear. Then, I removed the exhaust canister at the back of dryer; the entire bottom wa s filled with lint the size of a softball. The lint was heating up, and when it got too hot, it blew the thermal cut off. Cleaned out the lint, replaced the thermal cut off, and now it's fine. Moral of the story: Remove the lint canister and clean it.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The dryer was making a squeaking sound when running
24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from PATASKALA, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Installation went very well. Raised the top of the dryer, removed the front of the dryer, remove the drum, at this point the dryer‘s wide open removed the police and the tensioner also remove your tire rings replace everything back in order as how are you get apart. Repair took about an hour and 15 minutes
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would quit before the end of the cycle
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ernest from Beaumont, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
My wife reported that the dryer was not working. I checked it and it seemed to work fine. This went on for about a month or two. Every time I checked it, it started just fine.

Well, she threatened to go buy a new dryer, I took her more seriously. I thought perhaps a thermal protection was the cause. But when I dug into it, I learned that when those trip out, they are permanent (have to be replaced).

I finally noticed loud humming sound the motor made at start-up, when it failed to start turning on one occasion and eventually tripped out the motors thermal protection.

I ordered the new drive motor form PartSelect.com.

Replacing the motor was fairly easy if you like to take stuff apart. One thing that I had not anticipated was that the two foam gaskets on the exhaust duct were dry rotted. I went to my local part supplier to get them. They did not have them in stock. :( While I was there, I asked how much the motor was, they wanted $50 more than PartSelect.com :D

I put it back together without the new gaskets, and it runs like new. I ordered the gaskets from PartSelect and will add them when they arrive.

My wife is happy again, she can bust out the laundry in one day; it had been taking here all weekend.

I learned to take her at her word.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The Door Switch broke and Dryer would not run
26 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesus from Hillsborough, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Removed wires to switch
2. Lifted top panel of Dryer with a screw driver
3. removed two inside screws holding the from panel against the drum.
4. Dropped front panel on the floor and removed door switch.
5. While the door was out, I removed the lint panel attached to the door - two screws.
6. Cleaned the door p anel with a vaccum cleaner
7. replaced lint panel onto door with two screws
8. replaced door switch to the front panel
9. placed front panel on to the from of dryer with two screws.
10. Connected wires onto the door switch.
11. Closed top dryer panel and them pressed hard to catch on to metal clips.
12. Attached Dryer cable to electrical outlet
13. Trurned Dryer on and open door as it tumbled to confirm it would stop.
14. Done
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dyer would not heat, flame would shut off within 10 seconds
24 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christy from Riley, MI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Belt broke, dryer stopped.
24 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Groveland, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced the belt and the wheels supplied with the kit. I also cleaned the inside of the unit. It looks and works like new.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
My Lint Filter was torn and had ragged edges
21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary Ann from Farmingdale, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
My husband pulled out the old filter and quickly installed the new one. It fit perfectly.

I'm so glad I was able to order the part. The machine looks like new.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
No heat, everything else worked fine.
22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • STEVEN from MORA, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Installed the new High Limit Thermostat onto the new Heating element and installed the unit on the dryer. Wires were then connected and the dryer was tested. Repair complete. Dryer is 25 years old and this is its first repair.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Push start and the motor would hum.
22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doug from Manitowoc, WI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
**** Remove power cord from the wall****

As said earlier, you will need to lift the top. Drop the two screws holding the lint shoot and pop the top by sliding a screw driver into the corner on the front. Lif tthe top and rest against the wall behid the unit. remove the two (4 total) screws at the top and bottom of the front doo r assembly.
Place sometin under the front portion of the drum. At this point you'll see the need to clean everything! :) Slide the belt off and around the drum, (take note of the routing it takes.) Remove the drum by gently pulling it towards you. Set it aside. Clean more. :) (It is nice to have a vacuum handy.) At this point you really need to get to the rear of the system. So I tipped the top back down, and spun it around. Removed the rear panel and cleaned some more. (15 years of a lot of lint in there!) Then you'll need to remove the rear cover on the left side, covering the blower impeller. Get read for a whole lot of debris. Vacuum again. So now you have the motor exposed in the front and rear. You need to remove the impeller by turning that clockwise to loosen it. The trick is holding the shaft in place from the front at the same time. I used an old rag and wedged it into the impeller edges and worked it around until it jamed up. Once the rag was wedged pretty good, I went back to the front spun the shaft. Then you can remove the impeller by hand. Vacuum more. You may get by without having to remove the lint shoot completely, but I did just to clean it up more. I did have to remove two screws in the upper corner near the top of the lint shoot. (Basically the hold the back in place.) I took a few notes at this point about the wiring harness. Used a heavier screw driver (standard), You can push down on the clips that hold the old motor in place. Then work it out the front. Clean more. The new motor is not an exact replacement slightly differnt but the instructions with it were ok. Follow them for the correct wiring. You will need to remove one wire and cut and recrimp a spade lug or two. I used ty-wraps to secure the lines back in place. Look closely at the diagrams and make sure you set the motor down in the same direction the instructions say, if you twist it slightly it will sorta lock in place where it needs to be. Re-install the hold down clips to the front and rear of the motor. Clean up your impeller, and reinstall it too. Then basically reassemble the dryer...tracing your steps backwards. This isn't really difficult, it just takes time and as you can see, you will/should clean as you go !
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 8543
91 - 105 of 3092