850429 Kenmore Range - Instructions

This washer leaked when it was about 7 years old and I replaced the seals at the bottom of the drum. That was a difficult repair but I'm glad I did it because the thing has run just fine for the 11 years since then.

This time when it leaked I started shopping for new washers, thinking it was the same thing. Just to be sure I op ... Read more ened it up to see if it was leaking somewhere else. The pump is right in the front of the washer and sure enough, it started dripping just a few minutes into the cycle. I hopped onto the interwebs and found Parts Select, they shipped me the new part and it arrived the next day!

First I removed the washer front (two screws). Then the bracket holding the pump came off by removing the two screws in front and loosening the screw behind then sliding it toward the back of the washer. The belt comes off once the tension slacks and the pump and bracket come right out. Remove the two hoses from the pump and four screws holding the pump to the bracket and you are ready to reverse the procedure.

If you care about your floor, be prepared to catch the water somehow when you remove the hoses. Be careful not to cross-thread the plastic when you screw the new pump on.

The toughest part was replacing the two hoses. One was held on by one of those clamps that you squeeze with pliers, not the screw kind. The space is kinda tight and a third hand would have been useful if there was room for it. I think I re-attached the bracket and pump to the washer to hold it in place.

I finished the whole thing in less than 30 minutes. It was super-easy except for the hoses. I would have bought a clamp that screws if I had thought ahead, but there must have been a reason for the manufacturer to use two different kinds of clamps.

I just realized it probaby took me as long to type up this story as it did to fix the thing. I just couldn't see spending ten times the money to buy a new washer!

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Unscrew the old one, pull it out, along with a few inches of wire. Use a couple of clothes pins to keep the wire escaping back behind the oven as you unhook them from the damaged (bad) one. Then reverse the process with the new one. No big deal. Works great now and the wife is happy.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too ... Read more shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

After 26 years, the element burned out. I followed the diagrams on this website. Basically, I took out the screws that hold the element in place and carefully pulled the old element forward. The wires had fittings that slipped off the old element (with a little help from the wrench.) When the wires were disconnected, I clipped the adj ... Read more ustable wrench on the one of them to make sure they didn't slip back through the holes in the back of the oven. The old fittings slipped right onto the new element (couple of taps with a small hammer to get them all the way on). Them I slipped the wires back through the holes and put the two small screws in the plate at the back of the element. Quite simple, even for a guy with four thumbs.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Turned off breaker, verified that the breaker controlled the oven and was actually off.
This is important since you can still get a shock from leaks in the neutral side that may surprize you if you ground one side. Also some breakers can be mislabeled on older homes.
I removed the two screws holding the element to the back of th ... Read more e oven phillips #1 screw driver.
I carefully guided the wires and attached terminals out of the recess until
I had about 5 Inches of wire inside the oven exposed. Just be patient and careful, they will come out.
I then unpluged the wires from the old element and attached a binder clip to the ends so they could not slip back into the oven shell. Clothes pins are also a good choice or some duct tape.
I thoroughly cleaned the oven.
I then installed the wire terminals to the new element and reversed the removal procedure.
I then verified function and temperature of the oven settings.
It took me 10 minutes not including oven cleaning time.

Remove to screws pull old element out, unplugged old element and plugged new element in. Replace screws and baked a cake

Removed the old element and replaced it with the new element. Very straight forward

Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the break ... Read more er. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.

I removed the 2 crisper drawers and the glass shelf directly above the Pantry Drawer. Removed the Pantry Drawer and Pantry Drawer cover so you have easy access to the Right-Hand End Cap. On the right-hand End Cap, there are 2 screws which hold the End Cap in place, use a 1/4 inch driver to unscrew the screws from the front of the cabine ... Read more t on the End Cap and half-way in of the cabinet, leave the screws in their holes in the End Cap. Lift gently to get off a small plastic pin, and move the End Cap away from the Cabinet. You don't need to completely pull the End Cap out of the cabinet, it'll move more like a door opening. Place 2 washers on each screw and gently put the End Cap back into place, being careful NOT to jostle too much so the washers don't fall off the screws. You will need to gently lift the End Cap back in to place over the plastic pin. Hand-tighten the screws back into place with the 1/4 in driver. Remount the Pantry Drawer on the sliders. When you go to install the Pantry Drawer Cover, you will need to gently push on one of the pins to get the cover back into place. Put glass and crisper drawers back into place.

Test by gently pulling on the Pantry Drawer. If properly mounted, the pins will extend fully into the Cover and will keep it secure when opening the Pantry Drawer.

ordered new broiler pan

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new ligh ... Read more t bulb in was not the problem.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.