8348 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

I took the front part off, then removed the old belt out and installed the new one in. Also fix the tensioner wheel (it had come off) After I posisoned / aligned the belt. Also cleaned the whole dryer with compressed air, it was really dirty and nasty, this dryer has not been cleaned in 20 years, overall I had a great experience with part ... Read more s select, they send the parts real fast.

Tank you

Jorge Garcia, Buena park CA

Opened the drayer top and then removed the front panel.
Removed the bottom seal from the acr as it was warn.
Carefully scarped off the remaining bits of felt from the arc.
Applied the supplied adhesive to the top half of the cleaned arc.
Placed the seal and held in place with small spring clamps.
Let it dry for ... Read more an hour, then I repeated the process with the bottom seal.
I let it dry over night, overkill probably but I wanted it to stay.
Replaced the front with new seal and closed up the top.
It has been working well since. Thanks for stocking parts that help out homeowner's on tight budgets.

After removing the front door of the unit I removed the Drum seal felt and upper felt part. Then I cleaned the metal ring with acetone to remove dirt. We you install the new parts the glue sent with the Drum Glide is enough for the task with a little left over. Now its working great.
Thanks for good part Jeff

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I us ... Read more ed a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

I raised up the top then took 4 bolts out of the front and it came off and then I slipped the belt on. Now was the fun part. I tried to put belt around the tension spring from the front of the machine. Bad mistake. So I turned the machine around and took off little plate bottom left, back side reached in and WA-LA back in commision. I too ... Read more k a long brush and cleaned all I could reach and put it back together. Bingo, back in business.
And I'm 71 yrs. old.

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide ... Read more . Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhes ... Read more ive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on th ... Read more e belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

popped in one in

First of all, I've purchased a belt from local service center that cost me more than $21 (local tax is 8.5%). But, I can not find the idel pulley assembly so I searched on the Internet and ordered from PartSelect.com.

Surprisedly, my order came just one day - they must cross-ship from local distribution that it's even faster t ... Read more han to get those in local stores (driving .. and hope they have what I want ..).

I've replaced the belt 2 days ago - it's easy with 4 screws removed to pull out the front door. The back panel is opened with 2 screws remove, and very easy to replace the pulley.

It's a heavy duty gas dryer made in 1989 and this is the third time I changed the belt and the first time to change a new pulley. I would recommend to change the idle pulley because I may not need to change the belt if I have had replaced it last time. A broken or not functional idle pulley may damage the belt in a short time.

Appliance such as gas dryer like mine will last forever with replaceable belt and pulley. I'm really happy to see a working dryer (almost 20 years old) and my wife is asking a small component for her washer .. that I think I can easily fix that too .. with the help of PartSelect search.

Hope this will help.

John

I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the ... Read more top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.