8138 - Instructions

The sliding shelf side rail is held by three philips head screws that tighten into nut inserts. No amount of tightening would keep two of the three screws tight. I found that the nut inserts which are plastic and insert into the side of the freezer would pull loose, probably from years of overloading the sliding shelf basket. Ordered t ... Read more wo nut inserts from PartSelect. 1. Remove three screws to remove shelf slide side rail. 2. Remove nut inserts to be replaced with needle nose pliers or reinsert screw a couple of turns and pull nut insert out with pliers. 3. Insert new nut inserts, position side rail, and tighten screws. Replace sliding shelf/basket.

Because the microwave is old and the bulbs, I believe, had never been changed I carefully tried to unscrew the bulb. However, when I went to unscrew the bulbs the end of the bulb broke off and remained in the socket. I used a few different tools then remembered that sometimes a raw potatoe can be used to unscrew the remainder of the bulb, ... Read more but to no avail. Finally had to unscrew the whole underside of the microwave to remove the broken bulb. May I suggest that you have the socket face away from the wall to screw in the bulb instead of the socket pointing toward the wall. You need to know yoga just to manuver the bulb into the socket.

Pull out dryer and unplug 220v. With phillips screwdriver, remove 3 screws from back of top and slide top panel back approx 2 inches and remove. Unplug 4 wire sets from rear of control panel. Remove 2 screws from back of control panel, carefully pull top edge and remove control panel. Remove 4 screws from top of front panel, as well a ... Read more s bottom 2 screws from inside dryer door. Disconnect door light wire near 10 o'clock. Pull top of front panel forward and lift off of tabs. Disconnect filter sensor wire under panel on the right. Remove 2 screws from each side of inner front panel and lift until tabs disengaged from side panels. Pull out bottom edge, carefully disengage inner front panel from drum and remove it. Try to turn roller wheels that are on the rear of the inner front panel. The wheel can get lint inside the wheel/axle and freeze. If one or both is stuck and won't turn easily, use a couple small flathead screwdrivers to carefully remove the plastic triangle retainer off of the roller assembly of the wheel that is stuck. You do not need to unbolt the axle from the panel. Wipe off the axle and inside of wheel with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. If the wheel has a flat spot from being rubbed by the drum, you will need to replace it as I did or it will make a thumping sound after cleaned and put back together. Do NOT grease or oil the wheel/axle. This will lead to more lint collection and clogging/freezing. Reverse to put back together.

Changing 2 lightbulbs is NOT ROCKRT SCIENCE. With a screw-driver, remove the under MW light lens, unscrew the 2 burned out light bulbs, and replace with 2 new quality light bulbs. Test out that both are lite and working as they should, replace the lens and you are done, Until you find out one of the new (made in Chins) light bulbs is b ... Read more urned out after about 6 hours of being lite, call the parts phonr number and order a new replace bulb.

Followed suggestion by previous poster to remove bottom panel...facilitated process well

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the back bracket holding the top on. Then the top will slide back and lift off. Next I removed the screws holding the control panel. Removed the door. Removed all the screws holding the front cover on. Removed the lent shoot. Manually rotated the tumbler. Checked both rollers in the front. Foun ... Read more d one with the flat spot in it. Removed and replaced it.

Unscrew and replace locker hook and assembly, replace screws. That completes door locking assembly repair. To replace the rollers and safety switch assembly, remove back top and front of dryer. Detach and remove control panel and set aside. Remove blower tube at bottom of drum and set all parts and screws aside. Detach all necessary parts ... Read more and depress belt idler pully underneath drum and remove belt. Remove drum and unbolt rollers on the front panel and also on back of dryer. Remove triangular washer and be sure not to damage it. Check axles for damage, and replace new rollers onto axles. Replace all washers and triangular washer and bolt back onto dryer tightly. Be sure to check that all rollers are spinning freely and adjust bolt tightness accordingly. At some point replace dryer door safety switch by pushing it in from the outside. That completes the safety switch repair. Now once all rollers are replaced, reinstall drum and depress idler pully and reinstall the belt untiltension is restored. Reassemble all parts and plug all wiring back in to proper places. Screw everything back together, plug in dryer and start a cycle to confirm repair was effective. This is not a complete guide on the repair, just a basic idea of how I did it. I Googled videos on how it is done and that was of great help. The repair is actually pretty easy but is much easier with two people. There are some other steps but they should be obvious along the way. My dryer runs almost better than new and the repair was pretty easy and straight forward. It is most definitely a repair you can do yourself. Hope this helps you out.

Removed the exhaust duct screw and removed the duct. Hardest part of the repair was reaching in one-handed to remove the screws for the parts. Make sure that the screwdriver is magnetic. Changed parts and dryer working better than it has in months.

After replacing the wires and the heat thermostat I realze that I needed to replace the thermostat ntc and the thermostat to blower located under door was burnt during fire. I removed front panel,front facing and tumbler to reach thermostat inter wall. It was easy after fixing to other area prior. I thought it was very easy and didn't cos ... Read more ume much time. I'm a women and it was easy to fix.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

You will need a helper. Dismantle the Dryer: Remove the screws that hold the top cover, front control panel, front door and front panel. Release the V-Belt under the drum. Remove the Drum. Removed and replace the 2 Front roller assemblies - these were completely worn. Replaced the 2 rear rollers (did not replace the rear roller axels as t ... Read more hese were more difficult to remove and they were in good shape) and the V-Belt while I had the whole thing open. Use a shop vac and cleaned up the whole unit. It is so nice and quiet now.

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (t ... Read more o my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

I first took the top off, then the front control panel, unplugged the wires from panel (very easy), took the front panel off, the rum comes out very easy, be sure to look at the way the belt goes back on the pulley. I didn't and it took me a while to figure it out. All goes back together very easy.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside wit ... Read more h the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.

Really easy to do! Unscrewed 4 screws, pulled flap on bottom of inside guide out. Then gently shake assembly to loosen from dryer and pull up and out! Then based on the assembly can replace front or back or both. They snap together! Put assembly replacement back in and close flap and secure in place with the four screws.