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7KRSF77EST00
7KRSF77EST00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the 7KRSF77EST00
[Viewing 13 of 13]
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Whirlpool EveryDrop3 Refrigerator Water Filter
PartSelect #: PS11722128
Manufacturer #: EDR3RXD1
This EveryDrop Filter3 is certified to reduce the most contaminants with Triple Filtration Technology. Now, you and your family can enjoy the enriching benefits of cleaner, freshly filtered ice & wate...
$83.89
In Stock
Refrigerator Air Filter
PartSelect #: PS2580853
Manufacturer #: W10311524
This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
$21.56
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$38.48
In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$46.59
In Stock
Produce Preserver Filter
PartSelect #: PS3503014
Manufacturer #: W10346771A
Fresh Flow Produce Preserver is made for your refrigerator to help keep produce fresh for longer by absorbing the chemical, ethylene, that causes your fruits and vegetables to ripen quicker. Your prod...
$21.56
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11757021
Manufacturer #: WPW10661886
This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
$12.73
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice Maker
PartSelect #: PS11738120
Manufacturer #: W10873791
This ice maker is for refrigerators.
Ice maker includes the ice mold and the control device. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and then holds the water in the ice mold until t...
$97.61
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742755
Manufacturer #: WP489483
This screw is sold individually.
$13.09
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.00
In Stock
Seal
PartSelect #: PS11739241
Manufacturer #: WP2198628
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ic...
$14.58
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
PartSelect #: PS11738973
Manufacturer #: WP2169142
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$37.20
In Stock
BULB-LIGHT
PartSelect #: PS12717432
Manufacturer #: W11338583
This is a genuine replacement light bulb for a refrigerator. The inside of your refrigerator should illuminate when you open the door. If your fridge does not illuminate, you may need to replace this ...
$48.72
On Order
Questions And Answers for 7KRSF77EST00
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Common Symptoms of the 7KRSF77EST00
[Viewing 20 of 20]Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Leaking
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Noisy
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Door won’t open or close
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Not dispensing water
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Clicking sound
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Will Not Start
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Door Sweating
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
there were directions
We didn't know where the product went and it was very difficult to install.
Parts Used:
-
Kate from Jacksonville, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
753 of 1268 people
found this instruction helpful.
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six months the light turns red. time to replace filter
First I shut the water off to the refrigerator.then i pushed the big button in the middle of the grille below the refrigerator door. pulled out the old filter, took the front cap off the old filter put it on the new filter. took the two red caps off the new filter. pushed the filter in till it locked in place. all done! Turned the back on
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Parts Used:
-
Leroy from Perkiomenville, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
306 of 384 people
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Parts Used:
-
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
154 of 178 people
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