79578302802 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

This refrigerator/freezer problem had been escalating for almost a year, requiring me to frequently knock the ice buildup free with a rubber mallet. I finally decided to try to identify the problem by removing the freezer door and all of the shelves and shelf tracks (easily removed with only a phillips screwdriver). Then I removed the bac ... Read more k plastic panel to expose the cooling coils, which were partially encased in ice. I deduced that the evaporator fan motor was failing, which blows air over the freezer cooling coils and forces the cool air up into the upper refrigerator section (which was not staying cold). I then found and ordered the fan motor from part select. Their search function and exploded drawing schematics made it easy to identify the part and part number. It seems the original part number had been superceded with a new number, which I ordered. Once it arrived after about a week, I transferred the fan blades from the old motor to the new fan motor, and after completely drying out the freezer compartment, I reinstalled all of the parts and plugged in the unit and waited. By the next day, the refrigerator was operating at peak efficiency, and the ice buildup in the freezer has not returned. I was very close to scrapping the entire refrigerator as junk, but with a little diagnostic effort and about $110 for the new motor, I have a fully functioning refrigerator again. Thanks to Part Select for a great experience.

removed the upper freezer door to access screws to remove lower door.
laid bottom door on its side, removed bad bushing, put new bushing in, put bottom door back on refridge, put upper door back on fridge. Door worked easy as when new. good closure of door and story..Happy customer, and wife even happier.....thank you....

As per utube

removed three screws from each guide and removed. Replaced with new guides using the same screws.

Check YouTube, but no one shows all the details. Need to swap hinges and spring from old retainer to new retainers by removing screw at bottom of hinge, then removing rod with small screwdriver to poke the rod out. I laid the old and new side by side and did swap to ensure proper orientation. Attach cams before sliding gasket retainer bac ... Read more k into gasket, I used a few drops of liquid soap as lubricant on the retainer to help it slide in. Very important to ensure the edge of the retainer is tucked behind the door edge or else things will not fit correctly. I did it a few times before I got it right, but didn’t break anything else. Good luck.

removed 3 fasteners for top door and placed freezer door aside, then removed 3 more fasteners on bottom refrigerator door and place that aside. replaced bushing on lower door bracket and reversed the above procedure to reinstall doors.

part fit into slot and screwed them down

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp ... Read more enser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

1st, emptied top freezer basket, used drill to remove 3 mounting screws, held new rail guide in place, installed same screws into freezer wall. Hand tightened with hand screwdriver to avoid over torquing with drill.

Used a screwdriver to take off broken clip and then used same screwdriver to replace with new clip. Very easy.

Used a screwdriver to remove covers. Used a blow dryer to defrost coil in freezer. Cut zip tie and removed old controller assembly. Inserted new controller assembly and secured with zip tie. It took 24 hours for the fridge to cool completely. Now it works fine.

I removed the old water valve, disconnected the water tube going in and tube going out to the back of the refrigerator. New water valve bracket different than the previous one which resulted in my having to modify it to fit. Not an easy task as it was preformed metal. Once hooked up, water turned on, and ice maker turned on, the sound ... Read more I'm getting now is clunking and not making ice. My debate is whether or not to purchase a new ice maker or revert to the tried and true method with ice trays which work every time.

Very simple
Removed wire rack
Removed 3 phillips head screws, requires large phillips screw driver
Removed old rail guide
Installed new rail guide and screwed back in place
Reinstalled rack

Lifted out the crisper cover, from the front, took the glass out, put the glass back in the new crisper cover, reinstalled. The door basket, just lift out and replace it with the new one.

Very simple installation.

Removed old rail by unscrewing 3 screws and put new rail on